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Thread: Broken bolt at reed valve cover - can we review do's and don'ts for removing? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-21-2009 07:07 AM
Old Dog
Quote:
Originally Posted by 750Doug View Post
Cindy, I didn't re-read this whole thread, but here's a thread from the Verses on the subject:Stuck Bolts
I didn't read it all either, but saw someone mentioned "Kroil" rather than WD-40, "Kroil" is some very good stuff, it seems to creep into places that other stuff don't, shooters and hand loaders use it a lot, I had rather have it 2:1 over the other stuff, its creapy...lol...
Have a good one...Old Dog...
02-21-2009 05:31 AM
750Doug I don't know man, but I do know everytime I've done it, it's worked, (like I stated, so why (exactly) it works isn't too important to me). But thanks anyway, and on we go...

Cindy, I didn't re-read this whole thread, but here's a thread from the Verses on the subject:

Stuck Bolts
02-20-2009 09:29 PM
Knifemaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by 750Doug View Post
I've always had good luck using heat and some penetrating oil like WD-40. I always thought the heat was to break loose the corrosion and such, and when I heat, I heat the metal around the bolt to promote expansion around the bolt, (opening the hole) and keeping the direct heat off the bolt (minimizing it's expansion), though I know there's always some heat transfer.....
Well I think heat can help break down the "corrosion and such" and in most cases when used with an oil it makes the oil flow better into the areas that may need it.
But a common misconception is when you heat a large piece of metal, like a cylnder head, that has some smaller holes drilled into it..the metal expands , but in all directions, and that means those smaller holes actualy get smaller.. because the metal surrounding them is expanding into the empty space.

This was a physics question ..how large of hole in a metal washer needs to be to get bigger when heated. The answer is...pretty big. A thick 2 inch diameter washer with a 1/4 inch hole in it when heated expands ...making the 1/4 inch hole smaller. Drill out the hole to 1 -7/8 inches, the hole will get larger when heated. Somewhere in the middle of that is a size hole that will do neither..the washer expands to more than 2 inches in diameter but the hole stays the same size. Anything smaller will get smaller, anything larger with get larger.

And as always , a good solid whack with a BFH* helps in most cases too...



KM





(*Big ****ing Hammer)
02-20-2009 08:56 PM
750Doug I've always had good luck using heat and some penetrating oil like WD-40. I always thought the heat was to break loose the corrosion and such, and when I heat, I heat the metal around the bolt to promote expansion around the bolt, (opening the hole) and keeping the direct heat off the bolt (minimizing it's expansion), though I know there's always some heat transfer.

Anyway, there's a million ways to do it Cindy, everybody has done something thats worked. Step one would be figuring out a secure way to grip whats left of it, and go from there.

Someone above mentioned a hot wax process and while I've heard good things about that, I've never tried it myself.

I always use a drill and "easy out" bit, or propane heat, vice grips, and some oil.


I've never had to go beyond either method myself.

Good luck.

(Spark plug threads are steel too, and another good spot for anti-seize. )
02-20-2009 07:57 PM
Crobins365 Thanks for all the suggestions and reminders! The oil was the thing I was forgetting (guess you missed it that first time, too, kanuck!). I think I'll try a bolt-out, though I've had luck with those only once; but if that fails, at least the bolt is already flattened out to about where I can tap it. Definitely will be applying anti-seize to the new bolts, but they are steel.
02-20-2009 06:42 PM
OlHossCanada
Quote:
Originally Posted by hopper01_68 View Post
A friend told me a while ago, tip for removing broked bolts. Use WAX.
optimumly heat the parts red hot, quench first with water, reheat again, the stick the wax to it(any parifin wax,or candle wax). Usually the bolt will just turn out by hand.
I would be very leery of appling that much heat to the cylinder pot. You could damage it past the point of repair, IMHO.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
+1 here.

Sometimes I even use a file to create two flat spots for the vice grips to get a better hold. Tapping the end with a hammer while applying torque works well too.

Heating it up just makes the bolt expand..thus making it tighter...using something to make it cold works better.

KM
X2 to filing 2 flat spots and tapping with a hammer while turning the bolt. I believe CRC has a penetrating oil combined with a freezing agent that may contract the bolt enough to break the corrosion bond between the bolt and the cylinder. A little shot of liquid propane from an inverted cylinder might work too, if you are willing to try it. Propane vaporizes at -44*F. You get vapor from a propane tank used for BBQ`s and RV`s when it is upright. DO NOT direct either at exposed flesh, as a freeze feels just like a burn as it heals.

A second idea to try, is put a pair of vicegrips in the freezer for an hour to chill them, before griping the bolt at the flat spots. Give it a minute or two for the cold transfer and contraction to occur before applying torque to the bolt.

Good Luck. I hope something suggested here works for you.
02-20-2009 05:15 PM
Knifemaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by oglejust View Post
i normally try to grab it the bolt w/ vice grips and use some heat to get a bolt out, if that doesnt work ill either try to drill w/ a left handed bit and/or use a easy out, if not i weld a nut to it.... all else fails drill and tap. if u weld a nut to it it'll either work or it'll break off closer and it'll be harder to drill
+1 here.

Sometimes I even use a file to create two flat spots for the vice grips to get a better hold. Tapping the end with a hammer while applying torque works well too.

Heating it up just makes the bolt expand..thus making it tighter...using something to make it cold works better.


KM
02-20-2009 04:44 PM
hopper01_68 A friend told me a while ago, tip for removing broked bolts. Use WAX.
optimumly heat the parts red hot, quench first with water, reheat again, the stick the wax to it(any parifin wax,or candle wax). Usually the bolt will just turn out by hand.
02-16-2009 11:37 PM
oglejust i normally try to grab it the bolt w/ vice grips and use some heat to get a bolt out, if that doesnt work ill either try to drill w/ a left handed bit and/or use a easy out, if not i weld a nut to it.... all else fails drill and tap. if u weld a nut to it it'll either work or it'll break off closer and it'll be harder to drill
02-16-2009 07:06 PM
Fire Ant I've seen something called Grabit advertised on TV for use in removing stripped / snapped screws. I don't own a set, and have no idea whether it works as well as advertised, but it seems so that it'd be useful in your situation.

www.4grabit.com

--FA
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