|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-26-2014 11:51 PM|
I use a battery tender any time the bike is parked at home, unless I'm about to take off on it again. If it is going to sit for a few hours, I plug it in. If you use a battery tender, not a battery charger, it can be left hooked up indefinitely, as it shuts off when the battery is fully charged.
I have a new stator, but am going to use the stock regulator. I never had a single problem in 12 years and 92,000 miles. That works for me. It's even still bolted to the bottom of the battery box. I believe the stator was destroyed by engine heat, not an electrical issue.
|09-25-2014 08:38 AM|
My bike hasn't seen a tender since I got it, but then again, the longest it sat unused was 1 week.
yea, the mosfet R/R isn't like the old regulator that my old mercury Capri had... it had 2 charge levels, full output from the alt, or low output from the alt.. (yes, it was just a box with a relay in it that switched between 2 resistors in the field circuit).
|09-25-2014 07:18 AM|
|scott42||Thank you very much, I think I understand now. I'm just going to ride it and enjoy it for as long as I can at this point. Guys thank you very much, my bike would most likely be sitting in the corner unfixed if it wasn't for your advise and help.|
|09-24-2014 11:11 PM|
Originally Posted by new rider 9984 View Post
|09-24-2014 08:12 PM|
|new rider 9984||
the mosfet r/r is going to shut off when the battery reaches a high enough charge if you are checking the voltage at this time it will read lower than what you would expect but as soon as the r/r detects that the battery could use a boost it will supply the 14+ volts and you will get the readings that you like
so when you first start the bike the r/r is kicking charge after running at highway speeds for a while the r/r says hey this battery is charged and shuts down a bit later it will say ok I better give the battery some help and kick back in so the r/r is working properly it is regulating the voltage to the battery and when it reads that it is over charging it is rectifying the problem by turning off
my opinion is that you are worrying yourself to death over this for no reason you are fine so grab your helmet and ride
|09-24-2014 08:06 PM|
Originally Posted by scott42 View Post
I would expect AGM battery's need a tender less than wet cell batteries.
Personally, non usage over six months or more.
If bike is not to be run for 2-3 months or more, you might connect up the battery tender.
|09-24-2014 07:44 PM|
|scott42||Also want to ask while im thinking of it, How often should I hook the maintaine/tender up? I havent hooked it up because I want to see what this system is going to do first.|
|09-24-2014 07:36 PM|
|scott42||Thank you william, that just might make for a rainy day project. Slim As I was about to leave work I tested my battery before start up and got 12.9V, at idle I got 13.3V at 3G I got 14.plus, rode home, tested it again at idle got 12.9V ant at 3G i got 13.0 engine off I got 12.7V|
|09-24-2014 02:43 PM|
Originally Posted by scott42 View Post
-Sorry, Simple Wiring diagram did not paste......
This Mod will replace existing +12V coil wires, ensure to tape off old front coil 12V wire (use the rear coil +12V wire to trigger new relay).
This should be a 30 - 45 minute job, start to finish.
I utilized the rear Ignition Coil red wire (ignition switched) to trigger Relay, Pin #86
mounted relay fwd of battery box on the (upper) right frame rail with a Zip Tie. I utilized 14 gauge wire to all connections on relay and to each Ignition Coil.
The relay 12v Battery input (ring connector) I attached to the hot (battery side) of the Starter Relay. I did not utilize a fuse/holder.
Ensure to thoroughly clean Coil connections...and fwiw, .....Ignition Coil polarity does not matter.
Coil Wiring and Relay mod (this is not that difficult)
Direct wiring the coils to the battery using a relay to bypass the original wiring harness and thus providing full battery voltage level to the coils.
This mod would be used generally for older bikes that have questionable wiring. A quick way to know if this will help your situation, is to measure voltage at the battery with ignition on, bike not running. Should be around 12.5 volts. Then measure voltage on the red coil power wire, again with ignition on and bike not running. If you have less than 12 volts or less here, you are losing voltage somewhere in your wiring, through the numerous switches and connectors before getting to the coils. I did this now on my 2002 just to test it and see if it would help the hot starting problem. So far it, combined with moving my regulator/rectifier, seems to have made all the difference in the world. Time will tell.
Basic 5 pin automotive relay. Can be found in the bling section of your auto parts store.
Inline fuse holder. I prefer the waterproof mini fuse holder for this.
10 A mini fuse
12-14 gauge wire, red and black
Various insulated spade connectors (6) and a ring connector, crimp type for 12-14 gauge wire
Soldering iron and solder - Heat Shrink Tubing
Figure 1. (above) This did not paste
I borrowed this diagram from folks at KZrider.com, where I am also a member. Note: Our VN750's have RED wires connecting the coils to power, not Red/Yellow as in the diagram. Another note, my relay had #30 instead of #36 on the Power connector.
Remove the front left side panel that is located above the left air filter. There are two phillips screws holding this panel on. It's the panel with the reflector on it, in front of the fuel tank. This side panel is covering the front coil.
A. Automotive relay (Approx 1" Square with # 36, 85, 86, 87 labeled pins) Mini schematic incl.
B. Original rear coil power wire, going to relay as the relay trigger.(Red Wire)
C. New 12-14 gauge red power wire going to both front & rear coils.
D. Inline fuse holder.(10 A)
E. Ground wire (to frame)
Fish a red 12-14 gauge wire up from the battery box area, under fuel tank, to the front coil. Leave yourself extra wire at the battery box end, enough to be able to attach this end to your relay. I put my relay in the right front corner of the battery box area, electrical tape around contacts, then taped/zip tied mounted to my frame. You might have to loosen the fuel tank and raise it slightly to fish this wire through. Make sure it stays under the frame where it won't have the tank sitting/rubbing on it. Strip the wire and tin the tip with solder. Crimp on an insulated female spade connector. I used insulated spade connectors that have a cover over the entire connector. Pull the red wire off the coil, put some dielectric grease on the new connector and connect the new wire onto the coil. Wrap the old connector in black electrical tape and push it under the frame. I didn't cut any existing wires to do this mod. It can be reversed easily if needed.
Reinstall the side cover over the coil.
Measure from the power terminal of the rear coil to a location where it can intersect with the other end of new front coil wire you just installed and cut another piece of red wire. Mine was about 8" long. Strip both ends of the 8" wire. Taking the wire you attached to the front coil, find an area of this wire where the 8" wire can intersect with it, and cut the long wire, and strip the end. Now using the rest of the wire you just cut, strip it's end and join all three ends, (end from wire from front coil, end of 8" wire, and other end of wire you are going to use to go to the relay) and twist them together. Tin the twisted wire with plenty of solder, then shrink wrap/ tape the connection. Tin the other end of the 8" wire and crimp another insulated female spade connector to the end. Remove the existing red power wire from the rear coil, dab a little dielectric grease on the new connector and connect the spade connector from the 8" wire to the power terminal of the rear coil.
The remaining end of wire coming from that 3 way junction you soldered needs to be stripped and tinned, and a female spade connector crimped on, DE greased and connected to the terminal on the relay labeled 87. This is your power to the coils from the relay.
Pull the tape back on the original red wire (from the rear coil) to give you enough slack to be able to reach the relay with the wire. Again, dab a little DE grease in the connector and connect this original red coil power wire to the post on the relay labeled 86. This original wire will now be used as the trigger to activate the relay when the key is turned on.
Tin the leads on both ends of the inline fuse holder (D Figure 2) and on one end crimp a ring connector that is large enough to fit the battery terminal screw through it. On the other end, crimp another female spade connector, dab some DE grease and connect the spade connector to the terminal on the relay labeled 36 or 30,( depending on which relay you have. Insert your 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder and close the rubber top.
Take a piece of 12-14 gauge black wire and cut a piece long enough to reach the relay, and go to the grounding point on the right side of the frame, above the starter relay. Strip and tin the ends and on one end crimp another spade connector and dab DE grease into it and attach it to the terminal on the relay labeled 85. Remove the bolt holding the ground to the frame, clean the area with a wire brush (I used my dremmel with a wire brush tool--wear safety glasses as these little wires become missiles!) and attach your original ground wire and the new black ground wire going to the relay, and tighten well.
Now take the other end of your inline fuse wire with the ring connector and put it over the positive battery terminal and connect the battery terminal bolt and tighten securely.
Reattach your battery ground cable to your battery and tighten securely.
I wrapped black tape around the relay and the wiring connections and then taped/zip tied the relay to the right side frame in front of the battery.
Some side notes: While doing this mod, I noticed that the starter relay positive terminal was rusty so I pulled it apart and cleaned the connection well. There is also a two prong connector that plugs into the starter relay and I pulled it off and the terminals were corroded, so I cleaned them up as well, used DE grease on them and put them back together. Just things you should check while you are in there doing this stuff.
That's it. Now your power to the coils comes directly from your battery so weak wiring no longer comes into play, and maybe it will have a positive impact on the hot starting issue as well.
|09-24-2014 02:02 PM|
|scott42||No I haven't, that might be something to look into once I think I have this issue solved. Where would I find info on it at? Is it in the sticky?|
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