|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-03-2016 10:58 AM|
Three ways you can go with stator replacement: Engine pull, engine tilt, or the Tux plate mod.
I did the tilt because I didn't want to lift the engine by myself. There's a lot you don't have to disconnect/remove with this option, and the engine stays mostly inside the frame, so closer to realignment. I left the carbs connected, front exhaust manifold, and bevel gear in place. I did however remove the airbox for earshave at the same time, as well as coasters and removal of the air injection system, so all that helped.
Tux mod can be tricky, plenty of posts here, and a member was selling the plate if you're not inclined to make your own. There can be problems with oil leaks, stator/rotor alignment, and metal shavings from the cut if done on the engine. But many have done it successfully.
|08-03-2016 10:20 AM|
Did you see this?
|08-03-2016 09:59 AM|
Thanks for clarifying. I found the correct wires and was able to confirm that the stator is shorting to ground. Resistance spiked all over the place when testing the combinations of the three yellow wires. I originally tested the leads on the right. Once I located the ones on the left, it made more sense and aligned with what everyone had described.
I was not able to test VAC because it appears that my battery is now toast and won't complete a charge on the trickle charger.
I've seen a lot of threads on stator replacement here. Is there one in particular you guys recommend? Maybe a video?
|08-02-2016 01:34 PM|
there are 3 bullet style connectors that connect the stator wires to the harness (and therefore the R/R) that are know to cause problems.. they burn up, rust out, or just plain fail. you can disconnect them to test the stator.
I want to say they are behind the engine, not to far from the battery box. Follow the wires out of the engine case, down under the front bevel gear, then they wrap up towards the battery box if I remember right. I cant check mine, because I no longer have them run that way.
|08-02-2016 01:31 PM|
|mick.park||A glimmer of hope. Thanks. Yeah the PO replaced the RR and removed the goats belly. The wiring may be slightly different than stock. I know the brown wire that's over there has been disconnected.|
|08-02-2016 01:01 PM|
If it checks out, then maybe it is brownouts that the Two Wire mod might help. You wouldn't get the intermittent 13v+ if it wasn't charging at all.
|08-02-2016 11:46 AM|
Hmm- maybe I did my test wrong. I did my readings by removing the heat shrink around the soldered connections of the three yellow wires going into the R/R. I didn't remove the solder.
I'm not near the bike now. I'll send pics
|08-02-2016 11:36 AM|
Might also look at the Two Wire mod, known to cure charging system brownouts, among others.
However, you know the stator has tested dead with those three wires disconnected, so it's not looking good.
Have you gone though the testing for the R/R? Stator and R/R were both toast on mine.
|08-02-2016 11:20 AM|
Thanks I emailed him this morning. His site is under construction.
Weird thing- today I rode about 20mi on the highway and once I got out of traffic and was able to go about 50+mph I saw the voltmeter read about 13.5 at 4000rpm for a while. Is this promising, or unrelated?
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|08-02-2016 09:18 AM|
Hmmm, yes, it does look like the stator is toast. Very low ac output.
TPE rewind is the best, most reliable stator you can get.
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