| Topic Review (Newest First) |
| 05-11-2014 01:13 PM | |
| kc2dgq |
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96Vulcan
View Post
Specs show RMS @ 300watts... I do need to switch to LEDs, though the stories of having to replace the stator are making me consider adding an extra rechargeable battery...
That is the REAL number you need to look at. Once you know that, you can calculate if the bike can handle it by reducing current draw on other compunents. Remember the system draw I am referring to is NORMAL useage of lights and electrics when the bike is running. The power in reserve that the R/R manages by either using or shunting it to ground is basically stuff like blinker, flashers, horn, cooling fan, brake lights, high beam, ..and others that are not normally on, and not all used at the same time for extended periods. |
| 05-09-2014 03:34 AM | |
| Yankee |
It would be pricey, but you might even be able to get two of these in our battery box... http://m.ebay.com/itm/141256029946?nav=SEARCH Anyone have any prior experience with either the 8 or 12 cell Ballistic Li-Ion batteries? |
| 05-09-2014 12:38 AM | |
| 96Vulcan | Specs show RMS @ 300watts... I do need to switch to LEDs, though the stories of having to replace the stator are making me consider adding an extra rechargeable battery... |
| 05-08-2014 12:12 PM | |
| kc2dgq |
switch your running and blinker lights to LED's and you will be very surprised at how much extra Juice you will have. check my sig. Now, not knowing the current draw of your stero setup, it may still be overtaxing the system with a stock stator and Regulator. Some details would help, but you can find a good balance between current draw and having to bleed extra current through the R/R by making some adjustments in your system's power consumption. EDIT: It is possible to set up a secondary battery and throw a switch so you can charge it at highway speeds, but you need to make a few calculations on what your system is doing and what (if any) excess power you have available at higher RPM's. |
| 05-07-2014 09:13 PM | |
| Wolfie |
I know that a lotta RVs have aux batteries....and there is an automatic switching system....I had one on my tourney bass boat...switched between charging the engine starting battery, to charging the trolling motor battery...that could be something to look into....the way the bass boats do it....Im sure its compact.....I think I had something the size of a solenoid unit on my Skeeter.... And ya, a normal stereo wont draw much and say, a TP stator with a higher upped R/R could handle it (MOSFET)....Unless ya have the Joshua Light Show eminating from yer bike....a TP coupled with a higher amp MOSFET should handle it.... Or ya can add a Chevy alternator belt driven off the stator side, as was just shown here recently.....(I still crap my pants every time I look at them pics, lol)....fookin genius though.... And Tommy...Vulcan2000...call me when ya get a chance....its time to ride brother.... |
| 05-07-2014 09:08 AM | |
| Goofyfoot2001 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie
View Post
It could be hooked up switched also, so you can switch from one to the other for charging....
|
| 05-07-2014 08:03 AM | |
| kanuck69 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan2000
View Post
You could but you would have limited power without a way to keep the additional battery charged.
I wonder how much juice this radio of his uses anyway? |
| 05-07-2014 01:18 AM | |
| smltownr | Wolfie, I guessed they missed the switched dual batt system. I had one on my truck ( homemade of course) I used for hunting/camping |
| 05-06-2014 09:36 PM | |
| Vulcan2000 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanuck69
View Post
Your referring to a battery that would not be connected to the charging system right?
Don't see why you couldn't. |
| 05-06-2014 08:45 PM | |
| Wolfie |
It could be hooked up switched also, so you can switch from one to the other for charging.... |
| This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread. | |
| Posting Rules | |