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Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

Thread: VN750 Stator Replacement Notes Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-15-2018 02:40 PM
kryptonianjorel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruud De Greef van Leeuwen View Post
Where can i find pictures or a video from the stator replacement?
Can't find any video of a standard stator removal (probably because, uncut, it would be a few hours)

Here is a video of the stator removal with the Tuxedo mod, which should give you a general idea of it all. Without the tuxedo mod, you have to remove the engine (which is recommended to perform the tuxedo mod in the first place). If you don't have one, pick up a clymers manual before attempting all this.

08-15-2018 06:09 AM
Ruud De Greef van Leeuwen Where can i find pictures or a video from the stator replacement?
06-05-2018 04:10 PM
vulkan Got it!!(Just wanna throw a leg over that Vulcan...been couple months,know what I mean??)
06-05-2018 04:08 PM
ubertalldude stop posting this in multiple threads. you have like 3-4 active topics going with questions about your stator install. keep it in one thread, preferably the "Really..?" thread you just made, that keeps it localized so we can keep your questions and timelines straight, makes it easier to help you out
06-05-2018 04:05 PM
vulkan Got that new Stator in there ...no issues BUT hooked up wiring like I figured,now have NOTHING at the key/ignition!!Those three yellow wires go straight from the Stator to the three yellow wires on the "plug" on the Rectifier...read in the Forum that this was good to bypass some "box" somewhere(??)'Course brown wire from harness to brown to plug on Rectifier,white to white...black/yellow to black/yellow.Wondering if the three yellow Stator wires NEED to go into the harness??In the pic you can see the three original yellow wires from the harness hanging there...hooked to nothing.Dont understand why they would need to go through key/ignition/harness???Maybe it didn't help that I heard a slight "Bzzz..." when couple wires touched,before I thought to unhook battery!! Pic in "Really....??" thread....
05-15-2018 09:44 PM
OleDirtyDoc Yes as that piece of frame holds a lot of structure.take it from a man who had that frame rail rust out on him. The bike will wallow around like it has bad steering head AND wheel bearings. Mine even went into a violent headshake and put me down at about 40 mph.not my idea of a good time


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05-15-2018 07:54 PM
ubertalldude the frame cut is not necessarily a "board approved" method. as far as I know ONLY One1 has ever done it successfully, so nobody else will be of help. I've taken the engine out to do dampers and held the stator in my hands, so I know how to get to it, but would never dream of cutting the frame myself.

if I'm not mistaken, One1 is like a master welder? maybe even a professional? you should talk to him directly if you're considering following in his footsteps. cutting the frame to avoid 4-5 hrs of labor is a huge leap and risk to take, keep that in mind.
05-15-2018 04:32 PM
vulkan OK so going with the "Frame cut mod"...yes I have a wire feed welder/friend to lend a hand.So one question (for now) One1 says cut frame at "correct" upper/lower spots...fine.But then One1 says remove "larger" cover,change Stator...easy peasy!!OK so the "smaller" cover stays on??Thought there were three Phillips screws there that need to come out??(Also hope those screws are ready to come out..no stripping for me!)
05-04-2018 09:54 PM
vulkan
Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy View Post
It's hiding under the left engine side cover, which you can't remove without unbolting the engine and tilting it to the right.

Aside from what Chad said about prolong it's life, keep your oil clean and full, as your oil is all it gets to cool with, maintain your cooling system, don't let your bike overheat and try to avoid a lot of hot weather bumper to bumper slow traffic. Heat kills the stator.
OMG....no crap!!! I have not seen this on the Forum...here in Fl makes a huge difference...damn good to (finally) know!! My Temp gauge goes to half+ sitting in traffic on a hot azz day.
12-08-2014 01:34 AM
ttarpinyan
Tuxedo Mod with GC-Extreme Plate and M6 50mm 12,9 grade bolts

About 2 weeks ago after my swimming session at YMCA I was getting ready to go home. I went to my bike and tried to start it but battery didn't have enough juice to crank the engine and after a couple more times it eventually drained the battery completely . Luckily I was only 5 miles away from home. I called my wife she picked me up then we drove back to the bike with a car battery. I tied the battery to the back of the bike, road home with it .
In short my stator gave in at 26,000 miles. I called a couple motorcycle repair shops to get some estimates. The average cost of replacing the stator was about $800. I had already watched several videos about Tuxedo mod and read almost all the the threads about it.
Finally, I decided to go with the mod and ordered my ElectroSport stator and the stator plate from http://www.ElectroSport.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=63&search=stator"]http://www.ElectroSport.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=63&search=stator
GC-Extreme's plates are excellent. It is micron level precise. It fit with no hassle. Great, clean product. Glenn (from GC-Extreme) answered all my questions regarding the plates ptiently. I got my shipment within few days. Plates came with two M6 x 1mm x 25mm (12,9 grade) and 2 M6 x 1mm x 15mm (10,9 grade) machine bolts.
I installed everything ran the wires from the original holes and closed the side cover.
However, the idea of splitting the 40mm thread hole into about 10mm on the plate side (5mm part of the thread is unused because the spacer's ribs) and 25mm on the stator side of the cast aluminum spacer kept bothering me. Even though I used a ton of loctite blue on the threads I couldn't trust a cast aluminum spacer with only 10mm treading on plate side.
So I decided to use 50mm 12,9 grade machine bolts.
I removed the cover and the stator and re-assembled by keeping the bolt heads on the stator side and the nuts on the plate side. I shaved the spacer and added 3 washer between the plate and the spacer for each bolt. After tightening the nuts I cut the about 4mm excess from the bolts. Please see the pictures attached.
Sorry I took my pictures after finishing the whole job. I used my old stator and the extra bolts and nuts for the dem0 purposes.
Now, I get about 14.5 volts at idle. This goes down to 13.9 when I rev it up to 3,000 rpm.
So far no complaints on the ElectroSport stator.
GC-Extreme's plate fir perfectly. I completed the whole process under 5 hours.
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