|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-22-2008 11:36 PM|
Originally Posted by fergy View Post
Ah, but you will recall the infamous "Snap-Ring Debacle" that ruined my maiden voyage through the "simple, everyone-can-do-it" spline lube procedure! (The sorry tale is recorded on a thread elsewhere on this site.)
And I almost destroyed my engine after changing my oil for the first time because I didn't realize that I needed to check the oil level with the bike on the center stand. I rode the bike for 200 miles before I figured out why the oil light was flickering oddly upon every cold start-up. (I must have had just enough oil sloshing around in there, because the light always went out and stayed out.)
With a lot of help from wise wrenchers on this site, a couple of good local mechanics, and some luck, my '06 has nearly 10,000 miles on it, and it purrs like kitten!
In any case... hard personal experience, plus the knack for gathering info and presenting it clearly, motivated me to cobble together a fool-proof "how to change your oil" procedure!
|01-22-2008 10:36 PM|
|theauhawk||Fergy....Dude!...like, welcome back!!!........|
|01-22-2008 09:51 PM|
Hey Charlie, I don't think you can qualify anymore as a "non-wrencher"
Seems like you've done some pretty good time with the wrench if I recall...
Hope all you guys are doing good!
|01-22-2008 12:58 PM|
oil change procedure (Vulcan 750)
Some time ago I gathered and edited the combined wisdom of many Vulcaneers on this site to come up with the following. It is, of course, a work-in-progress...
Kawasaki Vulcan 750
• use any 10/40 or 15/40 oil that meets Kaw specs and is not "energy conserving" ~ SE Class SAE 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50
• Shell Rotella T Synthetic 15w40
• Mobil Delvac 1300
• Mobil One 10w40 synthetic
• Chevron Delo 400
• Castrol GTX 10W40; Castrol Actevo 10W40; Castrol Syntec 10W40
• Mobile 1 MX4T 10-W-40 synthetic M/C-specific
• Kendall Motorcycle Oil 20W50
• stock Kaw (big $$$) – part # 16097-1066 FILTER-ASSY-OIL 2003
• an auto parts store can cross reference another one for you
• Purolator Pure One Filter (PL14610) ~ "the best you can buy" ~ it's blue, so you might want to use black spray paint, several coats all at once, then let dry before mounting (Sherwin Williams part # 140-0514, Wrought Iron Black)
• Mobil 1 M 1-110, Champion
• Bosch 3323, Champion
• Wix (black), part # 51358
• K & N 202 (larger than most; also has a “nut” at the end for easier removal)
• Fram PH 6010a & 6017a (both are black; the first is a bit larger)
• Remove ring(s) and watch; wear old shoes and clothes.
• Tools: 17 mm socket, socket wrench, torque wrench, oil filter remover, oil, filter, drain pan, wide-mouthed funnel.
• Gather rags, paper towels, hand cleaner, sheet of heavy aluminum foil, a large solid plastic container (for the old oil), and a box/bag (for the oily towels/rags).
• Put the bike on the sidestand (over a thick mat of newspapers) and place the oil drain pan under the left side of the engine.
• On the left side near the bottom there is a 17mm oil drain plug. Loosen the plug, and let the oil begin to drain. As the flow decreases, remove plug entirely. Lean the bike on the left side to get the last bit of oil to drain.
• Once it’s drained, reach in and VERY gently remove the not-so-snugly-fitting spring, flat washer, and (with your pinky) the snugly-fitting (metal/tubular) screen. (Many neglect this step.)
• Clean the screen of any debris (and soak in high flash point solvent -- some use Seafoam, of course). Replace the screen, washer and spring in the correct order.
• Replace the drain plug and tighten with torque wrench to ONLY 13 ft-lbs. (Lots of folks strip drain plugs.)
• Move the drain pan to the front of the engine under the oil filter. Push the aluminum foil under the oil filter (kind of makes a funnel) before removing it. This will prevent any oil from leaking behind the starter, which is not easy to wipe away.
• Remove the filter. (An oil filter remover may be needed.) Make sure the rubber gasket comes off too -- if not, remove gently. Wipe off any leaked oil from around the oil filter plate and starter motor.
• Some prime the oil filter by pouring oil into it until it’s full and then let it sit for a few minutes (almost all of the oil will be absorbed into the oil filter).
• Put a thin coating of clean oil around the rubber gasket of the new oil filter and screw it onto the mount, turning it hand tight ~ 1/4 turn past snug.
• Put bike on CENTER stand. Add the new oil. Once the oil site glass shows your oil level nearly touching the top edge of the glass, stop and replace the filler cap and start the engine and warm it up. Then stop the engine and let the oil settle for about 5-10 minutes.
• Check the oil site glass – with the bike still on the CENTER stand – and top off the oil level if needed.
• Do not try to put in a full 4 litres! Most riders can only put in 3-3.5 litres to bring it up to the full mark.
• Don’t be alarmed if the oil light comes on for a little bit once you fire the bike up. If it seems like it’s staying on too long, you may have an air pocket in the line somewhere. Loosening and then re-tightening the filter, while the bike is running (allowing a slight bit of oil to come out) usually seems to get the light to go out.
How often should this be done? Some say every 3000 miles; others say every 5000 miles. Others do it more/less frequently.
Be environmentally-aware and take your used oil to a recycling center. Auto Zone takes mine.
Like EQPlayer said, even non-wrenchers like me can do this!
|01-22-2008 12:56 PM|
|niterider||For full level. I set the bike up as level as I can side to side and put oil in it until it is a bit over half way in the sight glass.|
|01-22-2008 12:03 PM|
I probably need to look at my oil changing ways... I normally go with 4 qts., and it is a bit full in the glass, about all full as a matter of fact (is that harmful ?), and probably over tighten the plug as I put pretty good pressure on a 12" cresent wrench...
What is the best method of judgement as to the exact level, to the full mark, 1/2 way between full & low ??? Put in 4 qts, 3.5 qts. ??? I do lean the bike on the center stand a bit when draining by putting a 3/4" board under the right side of the center stand after all that will has run out setting level... I'm using the PureOne filter and Rotella T 5w-40 Syn. also, is that the way to go ???
I think this is a good winter subject, especially for a dummy like me...Thanks for starting it...
Thanks and have a good one...Old Dog...
PS-BTW-You CAN teach an Old Dog new tricks...
|01-21-2008 07:52 PM|
Good write up EQ!
Should also mention to be POSITIVE that the rubber seal from the old oil filter isn't stuck to the engine.
And EQ, the 4.2 Qts is if the engine were brand new, with no oil in all the little nooks and crannies that the oil doesn't easily drain from after the very first oil fill.
|01-21-2008 05:53 PM|
If you ever strip or break the oil drain plug, order this from the local Kawasaki dealer:
11012-1483 CAP,OIL FILTER
The spec sheet says to torque it to 18 N-m, which is 13 ft-lbs. I used a crescent wrench, gave it a tug that I hope was about that much force (not much).
|01-21-2008 03:37 PM|
|johnrwilco||I suggest that you take a moment to carefully inspect the cast, side drain plug. Upon my first oil change I did just that and discovered fine cracks running through the "legs" of the plug. As careful as I was, the head snapped off when I reinstalled the plug. I imagine the plug was over torqued in the past (?), so if unsure what is the "right tightness", use a torque wrench. Anyway, just a suggestion. Don't know if a damaged plug can fail after threaded back into the pan (without failing as mine had immediately at replacement), and, it was a pain in the butt finding a replacement locally.|
|01-21-2008 01:32 PM|
|niterider||Most people tend to over tighten oil drain plugs. A tourge wrench is advisable. The aluminum oil pan threads are easy to strip.|
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|