|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-14-2008 05:03 PM|
I think I speak for everyone else here when I say, "Thank you" for this final feedback to the story--glad to know it had a happy ending!!!...
I guess one (other?) moral of this story to the rest of us would be the importance of maintaining clean, tight electrical connections. Also--can anyone say, "dielectric grease"?
|01-14-2008 01:02 PM|
Hi All, I want to follow up on this problem with the solution. I have been on business travel and the sick and then ordered a replacement OEM R/R trying to solve this problem, so it has taken a while to resolve, but it turns out that the negative battery cable was loose.
Last Friday I started troubleshooting the problem after I replaced the R/R and still had the same symptoms detailed above. I thoroughly tested the stator, fuses, R/R, and wiring and everything checked out fine. I surmised that it must be the battery going south and started to remove it and found the negative battery terminal bolt had come loose. Tightened it and, Viola! the charging system works normally again. Not too surprising, but good to share here. Reminds me of the first principle of troubleshooting: "Start with the simple stuff first."
|11-14-2007 02:37 PM|
Thanks much for the detailed R/R answer, Darrel......
Do let us know what you find out.....!
|11-14-2007 01:27 PM|
Well, I tested the stator output this morning with a DVM and the stator is working normally unloaded, without the R/R connected. However, when I connect the R/R, the output is being dragged down as the RPMs increase. So, the full symptoms are:
So, I just ordered a new R/R from RM Stator in Canada. I talked to a guy (Eric) about the current capacity of the RMR260, standard application for the VN750, and he said they are contract manufactured by a company and he's not sure of the actual specs. He pointed out that their 'Universal 500W Rectifier' is a lot heavier duty. That's what I ordered and I will adapt its connections to my wiring harness. 500 watts is 66% more power handling capacity than our 300 watt system! Waahoo!
As a side note, he is going to investigate whether they have the mating connector to our stock R/R. If so, they will sell them so Vulcan owners can repair melted R/R connectors. He thinks they have the connector housing and female stake-on connector inserts, but I'm going to confirm that with him when I get my universal R/R.
|11-14-2007 10:37 AM|
In short (no pun intended..) ALL stators go out. It's one of the reasons they only have a one year warranty. Usual mileage is probably 20,000 or so or two to three years.
However, most other stators are easier to swap out. That is the one thing that makes our stators a PITA.
There arer exceptions. Reports of bikes with 80,000 or more miles on the original stator. Most of these get regular maintenance, don't overheat and do not tax the electrical system. Even with that, there is no gaurantee a stsor will last forever. They are made by humans after all.
BTW, I also wanted to mention that if the voltage straightens out once the bike warms up, chances are it's NOT a stator problem. One of the problems is a short to ground AFTER the bike warms up and you would see the voltage drop to 12.5 or there abouts.
|11-13-2007 08:34 PM|
Originally Posted by dirtrack650 View Post
That's the economic explanation. The technical explanation has to do with the location of the r/r and a system that is running at pretty close to max capacity, just on a normal day.
|11-13-2007 04:39 PM|
|dirtrack650||But why do we have so many problems with our stators and R/R's?|
|11-13-2007 02:59 PM|
|theauhawk||Darrel....when you install the new R/R, I'd be curious as to what brand you go with--and why???........|
|11-13-2007 02:26 PM|
If your engine oil overheats, you will still get stator overheating unless you also installed a separate oil cooler.
Be that as it may, you may still have blown one leg on the stator or your R/R is out of spec or both. The only way to know will be to test them/examine the fuses. The voltage test only tells you something is wrong, not what. Is your R/R in spec for resistance? Is the stator putting out the correct level of AC for the RPM? Is the stator in resistance spec between legs and each leg and ground? Without the answers to these questions, any other guess is a shot in the dark.
|11-13-2007 02:20 PM|
The usual failure mode of the two remaining stator legs is overheating from the additional current draw. I installed an oil injector which floods the stator with engine oil to constantly cool it so extra current, up to the 15 A fuse limit, won't overhead my stator. Between the fuses and the oil cooling, I don't expect to ever lose my stator again. After the second stator change, I got smart.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|