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Thread: New (aftermarket) Rotors? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-17-2013 12:40 AM
Mercury To the OP: the EBC pads I have used in the past were good, used them on my atv with good success. I do not know about their rotors but if their pads are any indication of their rotors, they should be good.

as for rotors....

I had fancy slotted ones on my truck - I was not a big fan after just a few years

http://s376.photobucket.com/albums/o.../ART%20Rotors/


And while we are talking about rotors, this was a fun story....

http://s376.photobucket.com/albums/o...%20high%20boy/

good times, good times

kenny
01-16-2013 09:43 PM
WilliamTech
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post
Note : holes, or at times even grooves, help channel water away from the disc surface as well. They somewhat also help clean crud like oils and grease off of the mating surface.
You said it before I.... That is the way I always understood it.....

01-16-2013 09:25 PM
Wolfie Note : holes, or at times even grooves, help channel water away from the disc surface as well. They somewhat also help clean crud like oils and grease off of the mating surface.



01-16-2013 11:08 AM
Mercury
Quote:
Originally Posted by blazblu82 View Post
the holes in the rotor are there to help dissipate heat faster than non-drilled rotors. Cooler pads = better braking.
Not completely true. Depends a lot on the material. Also depends A LOT on surface area.

the big argument is 'but race car drivers have cross drilled' - that is because they are turning those suckers cherry red and must cool um off before the next time they slow.

My z rated carbon metallic pads did HORRIBLE cold, they grabbed harder then anything I ever used warm.

Ceramic suck cold.

Semi metallic is a good trade off, more dust.

I stop better with my truck with semi metallic wagner severe duty pads and a STOCK rotor then I did with the same pads and the slotted cryogenically treated ART rotors ... however throw the Z rated pads on the ART rotors do a few 60 to 10 stops to warm them up and those pads would want to lock up all 4 tires even on 37" rubber. I never got the z rated pads to 'fade' ever. Put those pads on the stock rotor and the stock rotor would be the higher wear medium and not the pad.

In performance testing I am very familiar with we actually 'warm up' the pads before doing official test runs. This is to get better deceleration numbers, and to better replicate real world.

Watching an accelerometer with the same brake pressure and cold pads you can watch the decel actually get better as the pad warms up.

To summarize: cooler pads <> better braking.

Kenny
01-16-2013 06:14 AM
Ndr
Quote:
Originally Posted by blazblu82 View Post
Oh really? I found brand new OEM rotors HERE. Part# 41080.
Cool, Gonna have to bookmark that site. Though the aftermarkets are still cheaper, will probably end up going with them.

Thanks for the input guys!
01-16-2013 03:15 AM
blazblu82
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury View Post
Did you just call me a Mic? Jokes on you I am Italian, although there is some Irish. .

hehe just playing, its late....

I will have to check that thickness thing, the other thing I will do is check my parts to see if i have new pads too.

I noticed some replacement rotors out there with holes in them - really not much material, wonder if that would be better for less rotating mass? I dont want to loose panic braking ability though.

Anyway that is all

kenny
the holes in the rotor are there to help dissipate heat faster than non-drilled rotors. Cooler pads = better braking.
01-16-2013 01:43 AM
Mercury
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post
Mic yours first...should have the minimum thickness stamped right on it....you may get away with cuttin yours...the VNs were pretty much made to never be cut, lol...ride and toss...
Did you just call me a Mic? Jokes on you I am Italian, although there is some Irish. .

hehe just playing, its late....

I will have to check that thickness thing, the other thing I will do is check my parts to see if i have new pads too.

I noticed some replacement rotors out there with holes in them - really not much material, wonder if that would be better for less rotating mass? I dont want to loose panic braking ability though.

Anyway that is all

kenny
01-15-2013 11:40 PM
OlHossCanada
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post
Mic yours first...should have the minimum thickness stamped right on it....you may get away with cuttin yours...the VNs were pretty much made to never be cut, lol...ride and toss...
From Clymers Manual
Quote:
Front Brake disc thickness is 4.8-5.1mm (0.189-0.200 in.)
Wear limit is 4.5mm (0.18 in.)
01-15-2013 03:33 PM
Wolfie Mic yours first...should have the minimum thickness stamped right on it....you may get away with cuttin yours...the VNs were pretty much made to never be cut, lol...ride and toss...



01-15-2013 03:24 PM
Mercury I had aftermarket rotors on my truck and they lasted a long time, but eventually fell apart due to the nasty winters up here. Bikes should do fine with aftermarket rotors as long as the surface area is the same and heat can be dissipated. But since we are slowing down with engine, fancy rotors are really mostly just for looks right? I am considering rotors since my stock one up front is pretty grooved up.

kenny
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