|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-07-2012 04:22 PM|
That figures...because mine looks like an oldstyle coal based record made on a Monday, lol. Guess I'll just keep replacing pads for now. Then again...them "specs" are set by engineers, who include a lil extra (like pharmaceutical companies add expiration dates that are premature) to cover their butts. My gouges aint too deep, and I use engine braking mostly, I bet I can get away with a light cutting.... *innocent look*....
|04-07-2012 12:50 AM|
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post
|04-06-2012 01:59 PM|
|OldBikeNewRider||pads were easy to change! If you haven't changed pads before you tube has some motorcycle brake changing videos that will give you a good idea what you are doing plus check your maintenance manual. My piston wasn't retracting and wore one of the pads down. So I cleaned the caliper and piston up and lightly lubed the piston hoping it will retract after braking this time. If not looks like I will need to replace the caliper.|
|04-06-2012 10:50 AM|
|CW-4||And while you are working on the brakes, it would be a good thing to flush and change the fluid. Books calls for this to be done every two years or 15,000 miles.|
|04-06-2012 07:25 AM|
|peterherrm||Great, thanks for the info.....|
|04-06-2012 12:20 AM|
Just changed my pads and they weren't too hard to remove. Took me about 15-20 minutes to do it. Need a c-clamp to make things easier. Got some Kelvar pads, Sumo brand, off ebay, $30.00 total shipped bot both rotors.
Here's the link for the auction... Kevlar Pads or you can buy them for $37.75 ShippedBuy pads - no auction
They bedded in nicely after running the bike up to 30+ mph, braking easy, running it up... braking hard... up - easy, repeat for the next 50 times.
Feel on the pads are good, no squalling and no surprises. Stopping power will only get better when they get fully bedded in.
|04-05-2012 11:06 PM|
Originally Posted by OldBikeNewRider View Post
|04-05-2012 09:17 PM|
Actually, bad rotors will cause premature brake wear as well. If yours have lines gouged all the way around, time for a cutting (if its even possible) or new rotors. New pads will wear into these grooves unevenly. You can get away with it for awhile (with much pad wear), but better to have smooth rotors. Increases surface area for pad to rotor contact.
|03-26-2012 03:32 PM|
|VN750Rider/Jerry||Put the bike on the centerstand, and put something under the engine to raise the front wheel off the ground. Spin the wheel. If you feel anything but very light drag, something is wrong. Check it after riding a few miles. If the discs are hot, then the brakes are dragging. If so, you will need to do something about it. If it seems to be the calipers, then they need to be disassembled, thoroughly cleaned, and put back together with all new seals, then bled properly. If you find any corrosion on the pistons or in the bores, you can polish it out with fine sandpaper. If you know the calipers are good, then the problem has to be in the fluid return hole in the master cylinder. You may be able to unplug that without taking the master cylinder apart. It should be a small pinhole in the bottom of the reservoir.|
|03-26-2012 11:16 AM|
|OldBikeNewRider||Thanks for the response. I am putting new pads on (the EBC organic-found the recommendation on here for those) as soon as I get them. I've cleaned the piston up as much as possible. For some reason (maybe crud) the piston was hanging up. My master cylinder looks good. I'll just keep an eye on the pad to make sure the piston is releasing and see what happens. Just not sure what else to do.|
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