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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-15-2011 01:53 PM
Old Dog
Originally Posted by Ceal View Post
I did the same thing. BIG difference.
No one has as I know of mentioned it, perhaps everyone already knows...
But most things on the vn750 that are not attached when shipped have an alignment mark for the person that uncrates and assembles the bike, you might want to look at some and see if they have been changed from the norm., everyone has their own preference so you might even want to adjust other things...
Have a good one...Old Dog...
08-15-2011 12:02 PM
Originally Posted by DavesVulster View Post
You might try adjusting the handlebars a little. Mine were too high when I bought it and I found that pulling them a little toward me was enough to make the difference. Have fun.
I did the same thing. BIG difference.
08-15-2011 05:57 AM
flitecontrol Thanks Hoss. Too lazy to look it up!
08-14-2011 05:58 PM
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
And a stator change no longer requires an engine pull, thanks to Tuxedoseven's d-i-y mod.
Link here: https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16839
08-14-2011 04:44 PM
flitecontrol And a stator change no longer requires an engine pull, thanks to Tuxedoseven's d-i-y mod.
08-14-2011 04:27 PM
DavesVulster Well, good for you. Enjoy it and I wish you the best with it. There are plenty of people on here willing to help with what ever concerns you have. You might try adjusting the handlebars a little. Mine were too high when I bought it and I found that pulling them a little toward me was enough to make the difference. Have fun.
08-14-2011 04:17 PM
EQPlayer The vn750 is a great bike, you'll love it.

It's a sportsbike in a cruiser frame. When the road gets tight and twisty, the Vulcan comes alive. From freeway (yawn) to open sweepers (yawn) to technical roads (yay) to ultratwisty goat trails (drool), the Vulcan eats them up. I put 63k of mostly very tight backroads on mine, it's a great bike. The local sprotsbile crowd will wonder WTF is going on when you pass them through the twisties.

Electrical system. A common problem is frying the stator, which requires an engine pull to fix. That's over $1000 to the local shop if you lack the skills to do it yourself. So, check and double-check the stator and charging system before buying. If there's an extended warranty offered, get it, will pay for itself the first time the stator fries.

Change the oil every 3k and it should last a long time. Lastly, no matter how short the ride, wear FULL GEAR. No exceptions!

Edit to answer your question about the rear shocks. For 1-up riding, having them empty is ok. If it's too spongy, give them 5 or 10. Riding 2-up, maybe 30, depending on the size of the passenger. Manual says 40 psi max. Also, the shock air reservoir is very small, so DO NOT use a compressed air hose. It took one pump from a bicycle pump to get mine up to 30.
08-14-2011 11:12 AM
4getful2 Well, 3200. dollars later and i bought it. 2750 miles. Both keys and no owners manual.
I bought this from our local yamaha dealer,they serviced it,flush the front brakes and fresh gas(it would hardly run and the exhaust stunk,had to be two years old).
My main concern right now,is how much air is supposed to be in the rear shocks?
Later on ,I'll get some handlebars that arent quite so tall,they just feel a bit high to me. 2 to 4 inches lower would do it.I always felt that as you are sitting in the seat ,close your eyes and reach where the bars should be and that would be the comfort zone. Other than that ,it runs fine ,starts easy .
The rectifier relocate had been done by the previous owner,and i can see why ,sitting under the battery box is just asking for trouble(the vapors),even if you did glob on some dielectric grease when new ,i don't know that it last on the connections.
Thank you for all the comments,it really helped.
Now if i could just sell that Majesty,
08-13-2011 03:25 AM
Originally Posted by 4getful2 View Post
The splines ,that everyone is talking about,you mean the ones from trans. to the rear-end or the very rear itself.? I thought on shaft drive ,the very rears got splash lubed with the gear oil.
Originally Posted by J.D. View Post
The ones on the input (pinion) shaft on the final drive, where the driveshaft coupling goes on. Between 2000 and 2002, the factory shipped quite a few without the splines greased properly, or not greased at all. Poor maintenance by owners of other years gave 'em all a bad rep. Being a '05 with low miles, it's prolly not an issue, but I'd have 'em checked, anyway.

The parts that get "splashed" by gear oil in the "very rear" are the ring and pinion gears themselves, inside the final drive housing, or rear end.

Here is a link to fergy`s spline lube so you can see exactly what needs to be lubed.
Note wib`s addition starting with discussion at post #34, and pictures at Post #44 for cleaning and lubing the rear wheel hub to final drive connection as well:

Link to Vulcan Verses:

Look through the topics and see what interests you before going to buy the bike.
Good luck in the hunt for a nice healthy Vulcan.
08-12-2011 09:17 PM

i bought a 2000 vn 750 about 40 days ago ,it only had 2000 miles on it and had been stored in a garage for years after owner was deceased.this is an awesome machine and I have already put 3000 miles on and average 55 mpg solo and as much as 58 on a trip.It has been 20 years since I have ridden and now I am completely into it again.this machine has it all and will run right along with an HD ultraclassic ,you know a 20K machine.Only problem is getting accessories and I am solving that now by putting cheap 11X11 throwover bags from Rural King $50 and will find a carrier and trunk soon or just big sissy bar bag.If you want a yard ornament buy a HD if you want to ride buu this with its short wheel base you can turn around on any 2 lane road without putting the feet down.It is pretty smooth for v twin but not as smooth as say an older 4 cylinder Honda or any metric.My pipes are stock so it sounds beutiful not like a lot of noise like so many do.
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