|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-25-2011 12:59 PM|
I was wondering about filters. It does seem like a good idea. Can you recommend a filter to use? I could just get a small inline for a riding mower.
I still have the original airbox. I kind of like the Vulcan filters because its a distinctive look.
Its likely that the first carb cleaning didn't last because the place didn't clean the tank. I was a bit surprised when they told me that. I'll see what Steve at Carbworx says once he gets them open; I'm mailing them to him today. After speaking with him I was very impressed with his knowledge and skills. I generally have a good feeling for when someone is full of BS and when they know what they are doing and this guy seems to be a great resource for us. He also says that Vulcan carbs are his favorite.
I also suspect that the previous place may not have reassembled the carbs correctly because I can't use any throttle when the choke is on. Any amount of throttle kills the engine.
|07-24-2011 01:42 AM|
All good advice but make sure your tank is clean or it will mess up a pristine set of fresh carbs,there are a few threads on how to clean out the tank by different methods ,also a pair of inline fuel filters are a good idea.
|07-24-2011 12:58 AM|
|Freedom||The hose that is tee'd together is supposed to go to the right ear, if you still have ears. Otherwise it needs a breather filter on it. I can relate to ya, I kept trying to clean the carbs and stuff like that. I finally pulled them and had my buddy who rebuilds bikes look em over. He had me order $80 in parts and cleaned/fixed all the worn out crap and now it's all good...well at least the carbs are all good. Don't forget to sync you carbs when it's all done! Since they're out, you may as well do the ear shave..|
|07-23-2011 04:21 PM|
|DavesVulster||I think they are oil FEED lines. The tubes near the fuel lines are in fact vents and if you have the stock air cleaners on it goes to the back of the right one. If aftermarket air filters etc, they can be tied up against the frame. Read that some guys put a fuel filter on the end to keep crap out of there. Its a good idea that I'm going to do also. I took my carbs off several times and left both boots on the engine. I just found it easier but I have no air box/purge tank.|
|07-23-2011 03:54 PM|
Got the carbs out. I struggled at first until I realized I was support to take the choke cable off first. After that it wasn't too bad. I didn't do any of the stuff with the thermostat housing, etc that the book tells you to do. I did raise the carbs up a bit against the intake ducting. However, mostly what I did was to rotate the carbs clockwise about 45 degrees when viewed from the top. I think I disagree with the suggestion to keep the rear intake boot on the carb and keep it on the cylinder for the front. I can see how that helps installation but it appears to be the worse way to remove. First, the rear book gets caught up on the stainless steel line that runs down the cylinder (I'm just guessing its an oil drain back line??). Second, the front carb's coasting circuit gets caught up on the intake boot on the front cylinder. I think the easiest thing to do would be to do it the otherway, then switch before re-installing.
I do have a couple questions...
1) There is a hose that comes off both carbs near the fuel lines. These T together and then just go overboard. Is this some sort of vent or emergency float overflow? Is the end of this tube suppose to go to something???
2) Can anyone confirm what the stainless steel line (about 1/4") is that runs between the cylinders? Is it some sort of drain back?
|07-22-2011 07:59 PM|
Probably a good decision, There comes a time when you have let a pro do their thing. I have had some of the fine tuning done at the local Kaw shop. This year it is starting better and running better than it has since i got it. Of course one thing that I did was to buy the recomended MF battery. IT starts right now.
Enjoy the Ride
|07-22-2011 07:20 PM|
Made a decision about my carbs
I've finally decided that I'm just going to pull the carbs and send them to carbworx.com. I've been playing with them for too long. I don't want to risk letting another local shop mess with them. Last night I did drain the floats, fill them with carb cleaner, then run the engine at 5KRPM for a bit. That did fix the issue for a few seconds so I'm thinking the issues must be float related. However, with the amount of time I've put into playing with this (when there are other things around the house that need my attention) I'm just going to pull them and send them off. Hopefully that will be the end of my carb woes.
I assume shipping will be a week each way from Kalifornia.