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Thread: Rattle-Can Painting? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-04-2011 07:18 PM
wolflrv I wouldn't worry too much about the temp, but you might want to call them. Also ask about UV protection. As I was reading further on the roll bar paint, it appears that several other brands don't have UV protection and will start to fade in a few months. Did not read anything saying that the VHT paint did it..but it would be a good question to ask. Other than that, this paint seems rather bullet-proof.
06-04-2011 06:51 PM
Matt79 i dont think metal will heat up over 175 or so even on the hottest days. i know it can get up over 160 on really hot days in august around here(Mississippi, wheres its 101 today but the paint isnt that hot today). i really doubt that 200 has ever occurred on a vehicle from just the sun but what do i know im no rocket surgeon.
06-04-2011 06:32 PM
thebeginning
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolflrv View Post
Just ran across this as a possible option too.
http://www.vhtpaint.com/rollbarchassis.html
From the threads I've been reading about it, it's used a lot in the 4x4 world as a very tough finish for bumpers, brush pans, etc..goes down easy...no clear coat necessary and very easy touch up if required. Comes in Gloss or Satin too. I think it would make an outstanding frame paint and maybe even tank and tins..since it seems to be chemical resistant too. Just throwing out ideas...
Interesting for sure...do you think a tank could get over 250*F in the hot sun though? I may try to contact them. I'd love to have an all in one solution.
06-04-2011 06:48 AM
wolflrv Just ran across this as a possible option too.
http://www.vhtpaint.com/rollbarchassis.html
From the threads I've been reading about it, it's used a lot in the 4x4 world as a very tough finish for bumpers, brush pans, etc..goes down easy...no clear coat necessary and very easy touch up if required. Comes in Gloss or Satin too. I think it would make an outstanding frame paint and maybe even tank and tins..since it seems to be chemical resistant too. Just throwing out ideas...
06-04-2011 12:18 AM
OlHossCanada Ron/lance328`s recommendation for the best rattlecan paint for use on steel is RUSTOLEUM PROFESSIONAL HIGH PERFORMANCE GLOSS ENAMEL.

For the black plastic parts- neck covers, grill and coolant tank cover use KRYLON FUSION SATIN BLACK. His statement was that -"After two weeks you cannot scratch it".
06-03-2011 11:18 PM
Knifemaker My spray can tips are ... Warm the paint in a bucket of really warm water. Spay in even sweeps and keep the spray going PAST your work before tracking back in the other direction. Several light coats are better than fewer heavy coats.

If you can, build a "spray booth" with plastic drop cloths to minimize dust. (wear rubber gloves and a dust mask) DO NOT rush.... Take your time and leave time between coats. A whole week before you clearcoat is not excessive.
06-03-2011 10:25 PM
Matt79 thats just it. sand prine sand and paint...make sure you get sandalbe primer...if it doesnt say sandalbe primer then its not. of course you could also put on a satin finish which gives the paint a "fullness" or depth but not the reflective glare of gloss. remember if you get flat matte paint then any oil based liquids that come into contact with it will leave a hard to remove residue (stain).
06-03-2011 10:05 PM
thebeginning Clear coating just seems annoying altogether...and I do like the raw look of flat black. Would I need to clear coat when doing that, or just sand, prime, sand, paint?
06-03-2011 09:11 PM
Matt79 doing a can job i wouldnt recommend clear coating your tank or fenders... thats the part you would be most likely to mess up applying and if you do mess up you will have to strip all the way back down. Just use high gloss paint and keep a wax job on it and youll be gold. wont take 20 mins a month to keep wax on it.

spray on clear coat is low quality regardless of price. somethings cant be replicated as well and factory clear coat is something you cant buy in a can.
06-03-2011 02:30 PM
wolflrv not ignorant at all...heck I'm trying to figure all this out and learning as I go and I haven't shot the first spray of paint yet!

The problem with all the rattlecan paint, whether it's primer, color or clear is that it doesn't have the hardeners in it which allow it to fully cure and give the best fuel and chemical protection.

I will tell you that a legitimate option if you wanna go cheap is to use a clear coat that comes in a can where you trigger a release button on the bottom of the can and it injects the hardener at that point. Sorry I don't have the name of it or the brand, but I've read about it and was considering it as option, before I decided to spray gun the whole process. The regular type clear coats at Autozone and elsewhere won't last 5 minutes when gas hits them and they'll stay sticky.
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