|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-21-2020 01:34 PM|
Yes, I was getting abysmal fuel economy with the ear-shave and de-goat. I wanted to play around with the jetting and get it dialed in, but the thought of having to remove ans install the carbs several times was too daunting. I still have all the stuff and might revisit it some day. I did notice a decrease in power going back to stock, but not an off-putting amount.
I think I've tried a lot of those tricks! I haven't trimmed anything nor used the wooden dowel though. WD-40 is your friend for sure. I've even made custom "guides" from 2L pop bottles to help the rubber boots find their place.
|01-17-2020 11:05 PM|
|VN750Rider/Jerry||You went BACK to the stock airboxes and exhaust? I have to wonder why. I've never heard of anyone else doing that before. I love the stock intake and exhaust, and have kept it on all my Vulcan 750s. Removing and reinstalling the carburetors is not easy compared to most bikes, but there are exceptions. The carbs on the first gen Honda Shadow VLX600 and the original Suzuki Intruder 800 are just as hard if not harder to work on. I have found a couple of ways that make getting the Vulcan 750 carbs on and off a bit easier. One is to trim some excess rubber off the airbox end of the ducts that go from the airbox to the carbs, which makes them more flexible and easier to get into place. Another is to use zip ties to hold the airbox (surge tank) right up against the top frame tube, to allow more working room and to prevent it from falling down in the way. Yes, this does require removing some other parts, but that is not really hard to do. A 1/4" wooden dowel rod with the sharp edges sanded down can help seat the upper end of the ducts in the surge tank (do not use a screwdriver, it will poke a hole in the duct) Soaking everything in WD-40 to make it slippery makes an amazing difference. I just used WD-40 to mount a new 150/90-15 rear tire, and it popped right on. If it is cold, a blow dryer will help soften the rubber. Don't use a heat gun, it will melt everything. But perhaps the best thing is to take your time and not get frustrated. It really isn't as hard as it seems when you are doing it for the first time. I got the whole engine out and back in without having to fight with anything, everything fit perfectly. But to do that I did have to practically disassemble the rest of the bike to get everything out of the way to avoid having to work around it.|
|01-16-2020 04:21 PM|
|Roach||I hear ya Jerry. The VN750 has to be the worst bike I've ever dealt with when it comes to removing and installing the carburetors. I wanted to play around with mine and get the jetting perfect for the ear shave and de-goat, but pulling the carburetors was just too much of a hassle. I ended up going back to the stock air boxes and exhaust.|
|01-15-2020 02:02 AM|
|VN750Rider/Jerry||Nice to hear from you again. I have watched all your videos, but just don't have the patience to rebuild a VN750 engine. It is several times easier (and faster) to rebuild a small block Chevy (the old school cast iron one) I did have the front head off my 2006 H-D Sportster 1200 to have spark plug threads repaired. What a simple engine. There are advantages to the H-D EVO engine. I recommend anyone who has just bought or is thinking about buying a Vulcan 750 to watch your videos, just to see what they have. I much prefer simple myself, but I like the Vulcan 750 so much I am on my third one. First two were bought new.|
|01-13-2020 09:36 AM|
I'm glad they helped.
Are you saying it's hard to spin the crank without the heads on? The crank should spin with very little resistance on it's bearings.
It's been a long time since I worked on this, could you link a timestamp in a video were you are at? I'm having a hard time visualizing what might be fouling up.
|01-12-2020 11:20 PM|
Originally Posted by Roach View Post
Now, I ran into an issue with right-hand cover (clutch cover) tightening the starter idling gear. When the cover is on and screws are in but not tight, the engine cranks fine, but whet tightened, it's hard to crank the engine clockwise (as the starter would). I ordered a new gasket just to make sure the one I had wasn't too thin, but I may have put a little too much grease on the both ends of that gear. However, I am not 100% sure that's the culprit.
Have you dealt with such tight crank after you put the right cover on?
Also, did your right balancer gear had a bit of play between the balancer and the beveled washer?
Thanks in again!
Edit: just rewatched your video, and I can see the washer is on the outside of the gear. I'll check it on Wed and hopefully that'll fix it.
|07-12-2018 11:02 PM|
I have been completing the same basic processs. Tear down and rebuild the engine on my 04 Vn 750 because I had to get the rear cylinder head re-machined due to a bad spark plug hole. I am almost done (?) but it seems that the engine runs a bit rough and there is an antifreeze leak apparently from the radiator just above the bottom of the fan and there is still an apparent oil leak possibly at the starter gaskets. I just replaced the oil pressure sensor /switch but there is still the oil leak and antifreeze leak. What is the best way to deal with the antifreeze leak? Also my clutch does not seem to be firm and I have been trying to adjust the clutch cable but not making much progress. Any suggestions?
Thanks an$ God bless
|05-16-2016 05:35 AM|
|hopjis||that's really so amazing i am working on the same project surely it will hep me .. thanks man for posting this|
|05-19-2015 12:05 AM|
Successfully rebuilt my engine with (a lot of) help from these videos.
Note to anyone (and this should be put somewhere important) timing the engine during rebuild:
The end of one video concludes with the completion of one cylinder's timing, and the next video begins the other side timing.
He doesn't explain how to turn the engine after rear timing....
Do not rotate the engine the small portion of the way. You must rotate the engine around three hundred something degrees.
I made the mistake of timing rear cylinder on compression, rotating engine forward a small bit, and timing front on compression. They both ended up being on the same stroke, and luckily I caught it before it went together.
You must rotate the engine so after timing the rear cylinder on compression, rotate engine until rear cylinder is on exhaust stroke, set front to top dead, and time for compression stroke.
|03-14-2014 03:47 PM|
I've been good.
I didn't ride as much as I would have liked to last summer, as I bought a house in June and that kept me pretty busy. I also had shoulder surgery in August so that cut the season short.
I did manage to drive to to and from work a bit.
I did a couple short trips with the girlfriend (1-2hr long). I think I might try and get her a bike this summer (Maybe do some more videos?).
I put a FuzeBlock fuse box on the bike for powering accessories. I also added heated grips and a windshield.
Unfortunately I went to take the windshield off in October and it cracked right in the middle at the bottom. It was a National Plexistar 2, and since it is an acrylic model National doesn't provide warranty. It was only 6 months old.
Another bummer is the bike seems to have leaked oil from the case somewhere this fall. I haven't had time to pinpoint the exact location, I'm just hoping it's not at the crankcase split face. If it is, I might just try running non synthetic. I really don't want to have to split that case again so soon.
I'm working on putting a basement suite in my house right now, so I probably won't make it out to the garage until that's finished.
Nadan, as far as the costs to do a complete rebuild I'm really not sure. I'd probably make an account on a site like BikeBandit.com and add all the parts you think you need to a cart and see how it adds up. But you won't really know what needs replacing until you open it up.
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