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Engine / Exhaust / Cooling
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Thread: Oil change = 3qts & coolant change = 1.5qts /What's Wrong?! Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-25-2011 12:26 PM
cglennon
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistereman1 View Post
Yeah, I have a 50/50 mix in the system right now.

My question was more about when you mentioned "flushing" the system. I have heard some folks say it is better to just use plain water and others say to Prestone flush (and some who say NEVER to do that!).

What has been working for you when you flush?
I used a Prestone Radiator Flush once on an old Ford Mustang. The previous own had used tap water for years and there seem to be a lot of deposits in the coolant system. After the flushing process the radiator leaked from multiple locations and had to be replaced. Since then I've never used any type of flush method. Simply drain the coolant system every 2+ years and fill with 50/50 coolant mix. I just did my VN750 last October and the old coolant draining from the system looked as good as the new mix going in. However, if the draining coolant looked brown and/or nasty, then would run a batch of distilled water only as a flush, but no chemicals.
03-25-2011 09:53 AM
mistereman1 Thanks Qweezy.
03-25-2011 02:05 AM
qweesy you give it the ol "douche" (ask your wife to borrow a bottle )... costs you like $15 = 1 pint of vinegar 2 gallons of distilled water and 1 gallon of 50/50 pre mix or 2 half gallon bottles of engine ice the ICE will cost you a bit more.

never run JUST water i did this in the Trumpet and corroded/rusted the hell out of my heat exchanger (coolant/oil)

1.) drain old stuff and take off your resi tank and clean it while its off

2.)fill radiator with half a pint of vinegar and distilled water let it get to temp then let idle for 10 minutes

3.) drain and fill with distilled water let get to temp then let idle for 10 minutes

4.) drain and fill with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze or Engine Ice you'll run about 10 degrees cooler with the ICE
03-25-2011 01:08 AM
mistereman1 Yeah, I have a 50/50 mix in the system right now.

My question was more about when you mentioned "flushing" the system. I have heard some folks say it is better to just use plain water and others say to Prestone flush (and some who say NEVER to do that!).

What has been working for you when you flush?
03-24-2011 02:02 PM
cglennon
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistereman1 View Post
Thanks for your input Chris. Will add prefill to my oil change regimen. Also good to hear about your temp gauge position.

When you do cooling system flush, do you use straight water or some additive?
I use a 50/50 mix of distilled water (never tap, spring or rain water) and standard antifreeze (both for autos and motorcycle). A 50/50 coolant mix is easy to figure out (by design), offers the optimal temperature range (for most of the country) and not very expensive (for the protection it offers). Change it out every few years and have never had any coolant related problem.

I do not consider special coolant additives necessary or worth the extra cost (for street machines), unless you live and/or ride under extreme conditions; racing, very hot, very cold, etc.
03-24-2011 01:14 PM
mistereman1 Thanks for your input Chris. Will add prefill to my oil change regimen. Also good to hear about your temp gauge position.

When you do cooling system flush, do you use straight water or some additive?
03-24-2011 01:04 PM
cglennon
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistereman1 View Post
Oil light goes out as soon as engine fires so I guess my baby doesn't need burping. Thanks for the info; I'll file it away for now and hopefully if I see the red light in the future, it'll jog my memory enough to recall the "burp".

Now it's on to spline lube next.
Always prefill the oil filter before installing it, then you will never have to burb it there after. By prefilling I mean both filling the oil filter cavity and properly saturating the filter media; new filter, add oil, wait for it to be absorbed, add more oil, wait again, continue until the filter stops accepting oil.

To address the original post; I just changed my oil yesterday myself (for the first time since owning the bike), because I wanted to try the Rotella T6 oil so favored on this and other motorcycle forums. I was surprised at how popular the Rotella brand is with bikers after doing a bit of research. Also, I wanted to see if the T6 version had any effect on the 'coffee grinder' issue. I was able to get just over 3.5 quarts in using a Bosch 3323 oil filter which is about 1 inch longer than the OEM oil filter. That brought the oil level up to the site glass fill line. Threw in the remaining oil for good measure which brought the level to the top of the site glass (can just make out the little bubble at the top of the site glass). I realize that technically that is overfilled, but a few extra ounces is not an issue, as others have pointed out. As for the coolant gauge, mine runs in the middle of the gauge (straight up and down) under normal conditions. Always has, even after flushing the coolant.

On a side note; The Bosch filter seems to have a higher flow rate, better anti-drain back characteristics or both as compared to the OEM oil filter. With the Bosch oil filter, I've noticed that the oil light goes out with just a few cranks of the starter, even before the engine fires up. With dealer installed OEM oil filter and oil, the oil light would stay on until the engine was fired up, regardless of how long it took the starter to get it there. Nothing scientific here, just an observation.
03-24-2011 11:20 AM
mistereman1 Oil light goes out as soon as engine fires so I guess my baby doesn't need burping. Thanks for the info; I'll file it away for now and hopefully if I see the red light in the future, it'll jog my memory enough to recall the "burp".

Now it's on to spline lube next.
03-24-2011 12:19 AM
denny6006
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistereman1 View Post
Was smellin antifreeze after riding in last post. Used 6mm to tighten all hose clamps. NO vis sign of leakage around any clamp area. Getting to the ones under the tank was interesting; managed to do it w/o removing fuel lines, it was a bit of a balancing act tho!

Suspicious of cap; after every ride it is moist on the underside. Went to OReilleys auto parts and had the guy look me up a cap; perfect match (what are the odds of that happening?!)!

Today's ride. Temp much more stable on ride home-fan never kicked in!!

Check for signs of leakage and odor again. almost nothin and it'll probably take a while for all of it to disipate completely. either way need to keep one eye on temp guage at all x's for a while.

Still wondering about the oil amount tho. Somebody mentioned something about "burping" done with oil change. WTF is that?
if your oil light doesn't do out almost immediately upon startup,you twist the oil filter off just enough to let the airlock out and quickly tighten it bac up when it spits up oil ,like burping a baby ,but unlike burping a baby, a clean shirt is not required for the bike to spit up on.



03-23-2011 11:57 PM
mistereman1
Update on cooling

Was smellin antifreeze after riding in last post. Used 6mm to tighten all hose clamps. NO vis sign of leakage around any clamp area. Getting to the ones under the tank was interesting; managed to do it w/o removing fuel lines, it was a bit of a balancing act tho!

Suspicious of cap; after every ride it is moist on the underside. Went to OReilleys auto parts and had the guy look me up a cap; perfect match (what are the odds of that happening?!)!

Today's ride. Temp much more stable on ride home-fan never kicked in!!

Check for signs of leakage and odor again. almost nothin and it'll probably take a while for all of it to disipate completely. either way need to keep one eye on temp guage at all x's for a while.

Still wondering about the oil amount tho. Somebody mentioned something about "burping" done with oil change. WTF is that?
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