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Thread: Need some input on body work.. Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-12-2010 12:09 AM
vulcanjoe no the weld does not penetrate into the copper. allowing the pooling metal to fill easier.
09-11-2010 11:15 PM
jimkonst So, the copper acts like a heat sink? I know squat about welding.
09-11-2010 11:09 PM
OlHossCanada You don`t really need any tooling, just a piece of copper strap from a scrap dealer, at least an inch wide and a few inches long.
09-11-2010 10:57 PM
hzhardy it is true but copper tooling is on the high side right now
09-11-2010 10:49 PM
OlHossCanada I have very minimum experience welding.
However, I believe when welding on sheet metal that you can use a copper backing plate to prevent blowing a bigger hole through than you started with.

Could anyone experienced with this technique please comment on its` effectiveness.
09-11-2010 01:05 PM
jimkonst Find some sheet metal to practice on.
09-11-2010 12:28 PM
hzhardy If you do not have a tank with co2/argon mix you are using a flux core wire. I personally think flux core is a waste of time unless you are welding thick metal 1/4 or bigger with an inadaqate sized welder like my 130 amp clarke since that type of wire gets very hot. So essentially you will blow out the hole makeing a mess of your fender. Welding sheet metal can be tuff since you can warp your fender horribly, so do like slim subjested and use fibber glass. Get the woven matt and cut a square to lay over the top of fender that has been sanded to bare metal with 80 grit. With properly mix resin and a paint brush apply just enough resin tell glass is clear. Press some wax paper on top of the resined glass an secure with tape as snug as you can get it. Flip fender over and lay a strip on the inside and brush on resin. Let it cure and remove the wax paper (resin will not adhere) sand lightly to remove rough edges and apply thin coat of glazing putty or use bondo mixed with resin to thin it out and sand smooth. Don't take this as being very easy as it is time consuming and it take a lot of experience to get body work smooth as you eyes will alway decieve you, so close your eyes then feel your work. I appologize for the mis-spelling this is from my black berry while driveing my motorcycle. J/k on the driveing part.
09-11-2010 11:36 AM
vulcanjoe 4in angle grinder with a ferrous metal grinding disk. then finish with 36 grit roloc disk in an air powered angle grinder skim with bondo
09-11-2010 11:14 AM
artemis_f0wl Ok, great input, thanks to everyone. But now to let me noob-ishness show through..

I borrowed a welder from a friend to fabricate my luggage rack/seat mount, I think it's a MIG welder- there is a metal alligator clip that connects to the metal and the wire fed from the gun. So I can use this to fill these holes in after clearing the paint down to the metal near the holes? I might strip the whole thing & paint another color. I've only tried to smooth one of the few welds I've made and that didn't go well. The weld was much harder than I'd expected. What is the ideal method for sanding this area smooth enough for primer?
09-11-2010 10:42 AM
Originally Posted by vulcanjoe View Post
makes sense I just prefer to burn metal i guess
I do too.. but not every one has access to a welder.. me included
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