|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-27-2010 09:31 PM|
|clock152||yes there is a gret write up of an ear shave.. do a search.|
|09-27-2010 09:25 PM|
|Freedom||Does anyone have pics of the needle with shims on it?|
|09-27-2010 08:43 PM|
|MarkinMichigan||Yes, that's it.|
|09-27-2010 08:38 PM|
|Freedom||Is the needle under the diaphragm thing with the spring or am I looking in the wrong place?|
|09-27-2010 08:07 PM|
|MarkinMichigan||Take out the needle and put the shims UNDER the needle.|
|09-27-2010 07:58 PM|
Hi again guys.
Ok, I got 140 and 40 jets and shims from sudco. I see where to put the jets, but where do you put the shims? My stupid repair manual doesn't really talk about the carbs much at all. Am I reading right that they go under one of the jets, or ??
On the plus side, we decided on kandy tangerine for the color with white on the sides of the tank and inside the fenders. Nice having a father inlaw that's worked in a body shop his whole life lol.
Thanks. Love this site, learning a ton.
|09-10-2010 01:19 PM|
|Freedom||Ok, I see you have sportster mufflers. I have an exhaust leak right at the front cylinder so I'm thinking about just replacing the whole system. Plus my oe exhaust is pretty rusty. Only issue is $$$ at the moment, but I have all fall and winter for that.|
|09-10-2010 09:06 AM|
Originally Posted by Freedom View Post
My filters are EMGO for $10 each.
My pipes are Sportster XL. eBay also $10 + S&H. You can find a H pipe to replace the goat or have a shop make some slip on header extensions.
|09-09-2010 10:50 PM|
|Freedom||Splines lubed, rear brake adjusted so it works now, tire back on and all buttoned up. On to the next thing on the list! Nice when a plan starts coming together. Oh, I used Honda Moly 60 that a friend of mine has from doing the splines on his honda st1100 and his newer st1300.|
|09-08-2010 11:53 PM|
Good news on the rear splines!
The brake cleaner should be fine to use on the splines and driveshaft connector. I believe it doesn`t leave any residue.
Yes, Honda Moly 60 lube seems to be the #1 choice here.
On the "hardly working" rear brake, are the actuating cam and any other moving parts, seized up at all, or moving freely?
Not sure why the rear brake adjuster is so close to the end of the threads.
Is there any chance it has been broken or cut shorter?
(If you think it might be, measure the length and post it so one of us can measure ours and compare it.)
Where did the brake wear indicator point to on the hub?
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