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Thread: New bike! Will need spline lube. Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-14-2010 05:16 PM
Bronson
Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
I have put 125,000 miles on two Vulcan 750s, a '93 and an '02, both bought new, and I have done a lot of spline lubes. I do them about every 10,000 miles. I have used various types of grease, from BelRay waterproof grease, which contains no moly, to the Guard Dog 73% stuff, and can't really tell a difference. I have never found any spline wear. I do not skimp on the grease, I pack everything full, on the back (I do both the front and rear splines) I completely fill the coupler, then push the final drive into it, forcing out all the excess grease. I clean up the mess next time, and do it again.

I think a big part of the problem to begin with is they never used enough grease to begin with at the factory, if they used any grease at all. On the ones they actually did anything to, I think they used a tiny amount of almost pure moly. IMO, pack those splines good, front and rear, and also the ones where the rear wheel engages the final drive. But be aware, if you put a lot of grease on the external drive splines where the wheel goes, it will sling it all over the rear wheel. I ride the bike about 200 miles, clean up the rear wheel, and don't have the problem again. I have never replaced an o-ring, but if you are going to, I recommend the stock one. O-rings from home improvement stores are mostly meant for faucets, etc., and may not hold up as well as the Kawasaki part. You don't have to replace the o-ring every time you do a spline lube, so $4 sounds pretty cheap to me. Just keep grease on those things. I see no reason why CV joint grease wouldn't be just fine.


Did you get a maintenance free battery? I highly recommend them for the VN750, for several reasons. One, it is a real pain checking the fluid level, which needs to be done every couple of weeks if you ride very much, and to do it you have to remove both the seat and the battery. Back before I got my first maintenance free battery, I rode with no bolts in my seat (I had an extended backrest to help hold the seat in place) because opening and closing Kawasaki's joke for a tool box door every 2 weeks to get to the seat bolts will soon cause it to break off. Another reason is that regular non maintenance free batteries tend to dump acid all over the frame and rear wheel, causing corrosion and rust. I rigged up a catch bottle zip tied to the frame to stick the drain hose in to prevent that. Yet another reason is if you let the battery fluid level get low, it will cause very high resistance in the battery, and I believe that can have something to do with the stators burning out. Replacing a stator requires pulling the engine on a VN750. A maintenance free battery solves all those problems, and tends to work better to boot.

Not sure what you mean on the jets, unless you mean a #40 pilot jet. That shouldn't be a problem, and is probably what the bike should have come with anyway, if it weren't for the EPA. I rejetted to 135 mains and 40 pilots when I installed my Vance&Hines exhaust, and the bike runs better than it ever has. Sounds better too. Jerry.
Thanks Jerry: I did replace a brand new battery with the Yuasa MF battery for the reasons you described. The 040 jets are pilots. The main has not been rejetted but I'd like to put the V&H cruisers on to degoat and I hear they sound great.
I will stock some O rings just in case I maim or lose one during the lube process, even if I don't need to replace it. The milage you have accrued speaks well toward your abilities with bike mechanics. I appreciate the input and am constantly impressed with how helpful everyone is on this forum.
05-14-2010 12:23 AM
VN750Rider/Jerry I have put 125,000 miles on two Vulcan 750s, a '93 and an '02, both bought new, and I have done a lot of spline lubes. I do them about every 10,000 miles. I have used various types of grease, from BelRay waterproof grease, which contains no moly, to the Guard Dog 73% stuff, and can't really tell a difference. I have never found any spline wear. I do not skimp on the grease, I pack everything full, on the back (I do both the front and rear splines) I completely fill the coupler, then push the final drive into it, forcing out all the excess grease. I clean up the mess next time, and do it again.

I think a big part of the problem to begin with is they never used enough grease to begin with at the factory, if they used any grease at all. On the ones they actually did anything to, I think they used a tiny amount of almost pure moly. IMO, pack those splines good, front and rear, and also the ones where the rear wheel engages the final drive. But be aware, if you put a lot of grease on the external drive splines where the wheel goes, it will sling it all over the rear wheel. I ride the bike about 200 miles, clean up the rear wheel, and don't have the problem again. I have never replaced an o-ring, but if you are going to, I recommend the stock one. O-rings from home improvement stores are mostly meant for faucets, etc., and may not hold up as well as the Kawasaki part. You don't have to replace the o-ring every time you do a spline lube, so $4 sounds pretty cheap to me. Just keep grease on those things. I see no reason why CV joint grease wouldn't be just fine.


Did you get a maintenance free battery? I highly recommend them for the VN750, for several reasons. One, it is a real pain checking the fluid level, which needs to be done every couple of weeks if you ride very much, and to do it you have to remove both the seat and the battery. Back before I got my first maintenance free battery, I rode with no bolts in my seat (I had an extended backrest to help hold the seat in place) because opening and closing Kawasaki's joke for a tool box door every 2 weeks to get to the seat bolts will soon cause it to break off. Another reason is that regular non maintenance free batteries tend to dump acid all over the frame and rear wheel, causing corrosion and rust. I rigged up a catch bottle zip tied to the frame to stick the drain hose in to prevent that. Yet another reason is if you let the battery fluid level get low, it will cause very high resistance in the battery, and I believe that can have something to do with the stators burning out. Replacing a stator requires pulling the engine on a VN750. A maintenance free battery solves all those problems, and tends to work better to boot.

Not sure what you mean on the jets, unless you mean a #40 pilot jet. That shouldn't be a problem, and is probably what the bike should have come with anyway, if it weren't for the EPA. I rejetted to 135 mains and 40 pilots when I installed my Vance&Hines exhaust, and the bike runs better than it ever has. Sounds better too. Jerry.
05-13-2010 08:25 PM
Bronson Thanks for all the support. The suggestions for lubes and part numbers for O rings are so appreciated. The bikes are running great but it won't stop raining around here. Can't wait to be on the road again!
The link and pictures are greatly appreciated. Should I take pics of the spline lube? Probably would not be better than what is here already.
05-13-2010 06:41 PM
duhstee i just did a spline lube on my 2005 vn750. I used Fergy's walk through and it was way easier than I thought it was going to be. My splines were almost completely dry, but luckily all of the teeth were fine. If it hadn't been for this site I never would've thought to check them and I'd be stuck somewhere on the road with a useless driveshaft. just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this site for the help.
05-12-2010 11:07 PM
OlHossCanada I was talking to a bike mechanic who owns an independent shop, at a local bike night a few weeks ago. I was griping about the high cost of Moly60 at the local Honda stealership ($24 for a 100 ml, or three and a half ounce tube). Tom said to pick up a plastic bag of lube for a constant velocity (CV) joint on a car, from any auto parts store.

I checked a couple of them and found CV joint lube as low as $5 for a bag. There is probably enough to do several spline lubes in one bag. All the manual calls for is a high moly content grease. The CV lube has no moly content specified, but is damned sticky stuff in my experience of helping install a couple of CV joints. Just offering this up as a suggestion if you can`t find Moly60 locally or online.
05-12-2010 11:01 PM
flitecontrol I dug out the O-rings I bought for the spline lube. Got a box of ten #17 O-rings (1 1/16" O.D X 7/8" I.D. X 3/32") at Lowes for a couple of bucks. Should be enough for 100,000 miles.

As for the lube to use, it is the consensus of this forum to use a grease with no less than 60% moly content. Both the Kawasaki and Clymer manuals tell you to use "high temperature grease". This is probably the woefully inadequate grease Kawasaki used in the assembly plant, quickly deteriorated to red dust, and resulted in many spline failures. You won't have those problems if you use the high moly grease. I would ask the Honda dealer to order it for you. Failing that, Guard Dog Lubricants makes a grease that is 73% moly. It's not cheap, but there is enough in one of their small containers to lube the splines 2-4 times.
05-12-2010 09:45 PM
gcextreme
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronson View Post
Thanks for the link. No other forum I've ever seen has been as good as this one. I see it's almost 8,000 strong now.
All I need now is the o ring, lube, and the courage to tear into it.
Many thanks.
You should be able to pick up the o-ring at your local Kawi dealership, i got mine, it was like $4. It's KAW part # 92055-1044.
My dealer had it on hand, hopefully your's will too.

Yeah check out Fergy's Spline Instructions, print it out, use it, its great.


I did my spline lube about 3 weeks ago.

Yeah my Honda dealer didn't have the moly either. You can use other stuff, just make sure its hi-temp, water proof, and good quality. My honda dealer is also the polaris dealer, he recommended the Polaris Drive lube, its like $9 a tube. But word of caution, make sure you check to see what was used, if any, you dont want to mix types of grease/lube. If your splines have some lube on it, then clean it off with some degreaser or something the best you can before you apply the new stuff. And of course the next time you do the lube, make sure you use the same stuff your gona use this time.

As for getting the courage to do it, yeah, cant help you there, but i an tell you this, get a buddy to help you, makes it easier when u got a second set of hands. Once me and my bud got mine started, it took us about 2.5hours. I think next time, we could probably do it faster.


Hope this helps.

Peace.
05-12-2010 09:37 PM
Bronson Thanks for the link. No other forum I've ever seen has been as good as this one. I see it's almost 8,000 strong now.
All I need now is the o ring, lube, and the courage to tear into it.
Many thanks.
05-12-2010 09:04 PM
Fire Ant Click on the link in my signature line to check out Fergy's excellent, step-by-step spline lube instructions. Having followed them myself, I can testify that they work.

--FA
05-12-2010 08:42 PM
Bronson
New bike! Will need spline lube.

I bought a 2005 750 vulcan last week and was able to put about 200 miles on so far. It only had 1650 when I bought it. Great condition and runs like a top.
I replaced the battery with a Yuasa battery, and the previous owner had some jet change done to make starting easier. I'm not sure but I think 040 jets were installed. The mains are still stock.
I hope to get the splines lubed soon, as I don't think they would ever have checked for any reason. If there are any people in northern Ill. who have done it, I'd love your input. I need to find the correct o ring for the seal. I tried the local honda shop for moly lube, but they do not have it. Are other brands available?
Once the splines are lubed I can sleep easy. All other service records indicate impeccable maintenance on this machine!
I just love riding this bike. My other bike is a 650 nighthawk from 1984. Still a fun ride but I love the vulcan.
Bronson

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