|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-20-2010 02:23 PM|
Originally Posted by Catchemall View Post
Edit: In your case, if you only rode 60 miles and they were shot, it probably wouldn't have made much difference if the dealership had opened it up. The damage had been done and they would have only tried to pressure you to let them fix it. $$$$! If you look at my procedure, you'll see how close mine were to letting go, and it probably wouldn't have mattered if the dealership I took it to lubed them either. But it is irritating that they are ignorant about it.
|04-20-2010 01:34 PM|
Carried my bike to the dealer for service; they changed the lube in the rear but did not lube the splines;
I ordered new tires; carried the bike to get the tires mounted; they said they would lube the spline when they removed the rear wheel.
60 miles later I am stranded with stripped splines.
Put the bike on a trailer and carried it back to the dealer; waited on the mech to get there; went over what he did.
He lubed the splines; the ones on the wheel hub; he never pulled the driveshaft loose from the rear end and lubed those.
You have to rub their nose in it; Kind of makes you wonder if any of the new bikes they sell ever get serviced correctly; sure are a lot of Rear Final Drives for sale on Ebay for the larger and newer bikes.
|04-14-2010 06:37 PM|
|flitecontrol||Think your time estimate is reasonable. Can't remember if it's in fergy's write up or not, but you should replace the O-ring while you're in there. Went to Lowes and got a box of them for less than what one costs from the dealer. Think it was a #15 IIRC, but you ought to confirm that before buying them.|
|04-14-2010 05:12 PM|
Good news the brakes seem to have decided to quit making noise after some riding. I think it might have been just he winter sitting and such. i did get a new scare, the clutch chatter (when cold, or so I read here! all this info is so great!) its gone as soon as bike is warm (50's here, but its new so i gotta ride!).
Looking over my spring tune up it appears its just the final drive that has been done (thanks for head up Fergy, made me look at recipt closer). So hopefully this weekend I can spend the time to do it. Only going to be so-so weather wise here. When i do it im going to buff the brakes anyways.
Already printed the excellent write up linked to here (sorry forget name) anybody have a guess (rough) on time it takes to do it? I'm a DIY guy on all my cars, and back when big hair was in I road bikes and worked on um too (82ish... ekkk!) but havent touched one in at least 15 years. Have all the tools, jacks, etc, the excellent write up, the molly grease recomended. And know my way around wrenchs.. It appears to be a 2-4 hour job from my reading (at least the first time) and how carefull I am (so add time, I'm slow and like to lay things out so i can rember how to assemble it all back the correct way the first time).
|04-12-2010 07:32 PM|
|flitecontrol||I'd want to look at those splines myself, just to be sure.|
|04-12-2010 12:02 PM|
Originally Posted by clok1966 View Post
In the process, they broke the left flange on the muffler where it attaches to the pre-muffler (you don't even have to loosen the left side to remove the rear wheel) and then they changed the final drive oil and ignored the spline lube all together. Turns out they, including the service manager didn't know what I was talking about.
Several months later I had done the spline lube procedure and I talked with the service manager, who apologized profusely and printed my spline lube procedure for them to have on hand. So, just FYI, you might want to ask. There are several accounts all through the years on this forum where the techs didn't know anything about it...
|04-12-2010 11:51 AM|
|vulcanjoe||i use silicone brake caliper grease on the back of the pads where they meet the caliper seems to work ok unless it is raining or damp outside then i still get a little squeal|
|04-12-2010 11:28 AM|
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
|04-12-2010 09:02 AM|
Copper based grease may be the answer.
Dust and rust between operaring parts can cause noisy brakes and the smallest of smears applied to metal on metal moving parts may affect a cure.
BE WARNED Do not get any at all anywhere near the friction surfaces. Brakes and grease are a bad mix but a very very very tiny amount of copper grease between pad and piston on a disk brake or on the operating cam on a drum brake could be the answer.
I do mean a small amount. I have a tube of the stuff that I bought over 30 years ago and there is still enough left that it will probably pass to my grandchildren less than half used.
Finally, keep it well away from the friction surfaces, this I cannot stress enough.
|04-11-2010 11:48 PM|
|flitecontrol||The rear tire removal is part of fergy's spline lube procedure (see his signature) and if you haven't done it, need to.|
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