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Engine / Exhaust / Cooling
\ From the radiator, through the case and out
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-09-2020 02:15 AM
One1 No reason not to be creative and make a special wrench if you have the time to, but you’re spending time on a non issue. Once the TOC’s are set they don’t have to be touched again for at least 8k miles. This isn’t something I’d try to cut corners on to save time, personally. You’re Setting something that needs full attention as you listen and feel for the right setting so it shouldn't Be a ten second thing. Taking the 10mm out of the coolant bottle to remove the overflow tank should be the very least of the worries. With the coolant bottle in place and adjusting with a wrench you can’t feel the chain. If you’ll hand tighten the TOC’s you’ll feel the chain and learn when it feels right. If over tightened it’ll feel like it’s tapping the bolt as it drags on it and thats Your only feedback once it goes quiet. Once it’s where you think it should be there is a second way to know it's too tight and that’s when taking a test ride. It will make a mild whhhrrrrrrrr Rushing sound of the chain. It’s not a loud sound so do it without a helmet if you wear a helmet that covers your ears. Just go up and down the street to test. if you hear the chain rushing sound you’ll Eat the guides up from it being too tight.

You should be at idle, loosen the lock nut, lightly finger tighten until the noise of the chain stops clacking, then 1/4 turn more and you’ll feel the chain start grabbing at the TOC. as long as it doesn’t make the whrrrr sound and isn’t clacking you’re good to go.
03-15-2020 03:25 AM
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
"I made spacers for the coolant bottle" I don't understand. My coolant reservoir fits perfectly with the TOC tensioners. I just installed them on my new/used 1997 a couple months ago with no problems. Has there been more than one version of them? I got mine right after they first came out.
The ones I made interfered with the coolant bottle so I spaced it out. Some of us poor folk can't afford TOC crap...

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03-14-2020 07:09 PM
mmart Absolutely, it’s a win win. The wrench itself is thinner than the others I have so the open end can get on the main bolt of the tensioner while the stub on the lock nut. Both fit without removing the reservoir. These are definitely staying in the tool box behind the seat.
03-14-2020 07:07 PM
VN750Rider/Jerry "I made spacers for the coolant bottle" I don't understand. My coolant reservoir fits perfectly with the TOC tensioners. I just installed them on my new/used 1997 a couple months ago with no problems. Has there been more than one version of them? I got mine right after they first came out.
03-14-2020 06:23 PM
Spockster Cool! And the other half is still usable.
03-14-2020 01:13 PM
mmart “Could get a cheap wrench from Harbor Frieght and cut it off.”

The locknut doesn't have to be super tight, just snug to hold the adjuster from turning.[/QUOTE]

Made a trip to the closest Harbor Freight yesterday before they “lock down” Delaware county in PA. Caught a crazy sale and got a torque wrench for $10!! Plus I got a set of metric combo wrenches for $4 and pack of diamond cutting wheels for the dremmel. I now have a perfect lock nut wrench for the right side tensioner that I can get on there without moving the coolant reservoir. Cut it down so the total length is 2 3/4 inch. Just need to grind down the cut side a little.
03-11-2020 10:40 PM
Originally Posted by mmart View Post
So I got my TOC MCCTs finally (took longer because of a postal error), I installed them yesterday and tweaked them as expected. The clacking noise is gone so needless to say Iím satisfied there. The noise was clearly coming from the left as you can hear in my video in the first post but I went ahead and changed both. Iím curious what others have used to keep the lock nut tight on the right side. Even with the coolant bottle loose itís a b-tch. Iíve looked up multiple types of stubby 17mm wrenches but mostly everything I see Iím sure wonít fit.
I made spacers for the coolant bottle

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03-10-2020 08:23 AM
mmart I too had read somewhere that since the Vulcan was Kawasaki’s first step into the V-twin world its motor was heavily influenced by the Ninja motor that was out at the time. Don’t know how much actual truth is in that but it lends itself to what you’re saying.
03-10-2020 06:25 AM
VN750Rider/Jerry I have a ton of those "tool kit" wrenches, and probably over a dozen never used tool kits removed from bikes that were sold or traded.

Like I said before, there are a LOT of things about the Vulcan engine that don't make sense. It is an engineering nightmare. It may have been designed by several engineers who never communicated with each other, but I personally feel that it went through a lot of changes from the original design. I think it was originally intended to be chain drive, and was converted to shaft drive, which would explain the clunky front bevel gearcase. I also don't believe it was ever meant to be a cruiser engine, which could explain the hydraulic valves and lack of access to the stator. They may have used hydraulic valves because there would have been no way to get to the valves in the Vulcan frame. They just didn't care about the stator. It might also explain the convoluted intake system. Some think it may have originally been intended to be a sportbike engine. I remember a really old article from a magazine test back in the '80s that said it was "a Ferrari engine in a chopped and channeled '50 Mercury coupe" It certainly is an oddball design for a cruiser engine. All other cruiser v-twins are a lot simpler, and make most of their power down low. The Vulcan 750 make it's best power near redline, which explains the four cams, four valves per cylinder, four plugs, two carbs, and super short stroke. But I also find it odd that they used a single crankpin and added a counterbalance instead of using staggered crankpins. While not most cruiser riders cup of tea, it is this characteristic that makes it so good at high speed long distance highway cruising, and so smooth and comfortable at highway speeds. It's like a sport touring bike (which always seemed like an oxymoron to me) that actually has a comfortable riding position. However the Vulcan engine wound up the way it did will probably always remain an enigma.
03-09-2020 10:20 PM
Originally Posted by mmart View Post
since the switch it’s been real quiet so we’ll see how long it holds up. Fingers crossed. As far as the wrench I’m going to see what else I have laying around that can be sacrificed. Good project for the next rainy day. But to the point I made earlier, doesn’t this look like a great hassle free spot for a CCT?
Looks like a good spot, if it would work there.

Looks like it must be a 17mm wrench you need? Some bike tool kits might have one, they make some of those out of soft thin steel. Even some of the thicker (but cheaper) ones will cut easy with a hacksaw.

I take these for granted since I have a drawer full of them. Thicker, but probably like cutting a bad steak.

Found some: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...Desc=0&_sop=15

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