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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-23-2019 10:38 PM
ronrymanr1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorn View Post
Hi Ronrymanr,

I highly recommend starting a thread specific to your problems, especially since it is not related to the blue wire mod.

Chances are that it's a POOGS issue (phantom out of gas syndrome). Probably a good idea to move the R/R, but that wouldn't cause the engine to cut out and still have enough charge in the battery to start back up after the engine cools down.
Thank you


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09-23-2019 02:30 AM
Thorn Hi Ronrymanr,
I highly recommend starting a thread specific to your problems, especially since it is not related to the blue wire mod.
Chances are that it's a POOGS issue (phantom out of gas syndrome). Probably a good idea to move the R/R, but that wouldn't cause the engine to cut out and still have enough charge in the battery to start back up after the engine cools down.
09-23-2019 01:45 AM
ronrymanr1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
You just have to methodically work through the troubleshooting steps.

Is the battery good?
Is the stator working?
Are the connections good from stator to r/r?
*Is the r/r working?
Are the connections from r/r to the battery and JB good?

* If the r/r is causing the current draw, the r/r is the most likely culprit, but you still need to know if the stator is working.

Do all the tests on the stator, AC voltage, ohms, and ground test.

As Thorn said:
I have a related anomaly. Thinking I should relocate the r r .every once in a while traveling 60-65. Bike will cut out like it's out of gas. It's not. And until it cools a bit the battery red dash light will flicker as I try to start it. After a few minutes it starts and runs fine. 2001 vn750 only has 25k miles. Plug on r r is heat dried. No problems with blue wire mod. Or yellow. Both completed??

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08-14-2019 12:54 PM
Spockster You just have to methodically work through the troubleshooting steps.

Is the battery good?
Is the stator working?
Are the connections good from stator to r/r?
*Is the r/r working?
Are the connections from r/r to the battery and JB good?

* If the r/r is causing the current draw, the r/r is the most likely culprit, but you still need to know if the stator is working.

Do all the tests on the stator, AC voltage, ohms, and ground test.

As Thorn said:

Quote:
I bet if you unplug your R/R next time you stop, your drain will be gone. If so, time for a new R/R for sure, and hopefully your stator is still ok? Best to check the AC voltages on the yellow wires just to be sure.
08-14-2019 12:42 PM
mmart
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigconey View Post
Whoa cool! I was wrong about the drain with the engine off. The battery just stays charged enough with the headlight off to keep charging. I’m getting higher reads when revving with the headlight off (switched blue back to stock) so it doesn’t die. If the yellow wires are corroded going from the stator could that be the problem itself? Or more likely the bad stator is causing the wires to become toasty?
It’s touchy, the corroded wires could f—k up the stator, or the stator could be shorted. It’s all guesswork without running the tests against it. I’m not sure if you have a voltmeter or not. If you do, unhook those wires (carefully because the connectors can break) and do that continuity test. If any of those leads are grounded out then you’ll be able to know for sure
08-14-2019 11:53 AM
Craigconey Whoa cool! I was wrong about the drain with the engine off. The battery just stays charged enough with the headlight off to keep charging. Iím getting higher reads when revving with the headlight off (switched blue back to stock) so it doesnít die. If the yellow wires are corroded going from the stator could that be the problem itself? Or more likely the bad stator is causing the wires to become toasty?
08-14-2019 10:23 AM
Thorn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigconey View Post
Here are some pics I took of the wiring going into the boxes.
Well, the pictures solved one mystery, but not an important one. The blue wire mod was not done correctly, but in my opinion it has been done better! With your current setup, your tail light and dash are controlled by your tail fuse, and your headlight is controlled by your headlight fuse. (normal blue wire mod leaves the headlight controlled by the tail fuse, and the tail/dash is only protected by the main 30 amp fuse, and the headlight fuse is unused).

Unfortunately, all of those things have no power when the ignition is off, so there's no chance of a vampiric drain BECAUSE of the wire swap.

You said the drain goes away when the 8-pin connector is pulled from the box. The ONLY thing not completely de-energized on that plug when the ignition is off is the R/R. I bet if you unplug your R/R next time you stop, your drain will be gone. If so, time for a new R/R for sure, and hopefully your stator is still ok? Best to check the AC voltages on the yellow wires just to be sure.

Chances are that one of your stator windings is shot (probably the winding that used to turn your headlight on). $400 is a great deal if the mechanic understands that they're splitting the case. Otherwise your $400 might quickly balloon into something much bigger.
08-14-2019 12:04 AM
mmart The rectifier should be hot to the touch it is a heat sink, that’s why it has fins on it to dissipate the heat. The connections from the stator could be corroded and are building up resistance which could make them hot. The tests we mentioned in the thread will tell you for sure.
08-13-2019 08:16 PM
Craigconey Thanks. I just checked with it off. The battery was at 12.45. started it, revved to 4000rpms and it went up to 12.67. then it just goes back down. Now with it off it's at 12.35. So once its started it wont strand me because its still going up in charge but just not keeping it while never going drastically low until starting it again. Could this mean its the rectifier and not the stator? Also the 3 yellow wires are extremely hot while running and so is the rectifier.
08-13-2019 07:49 PM
mmart I’m thinking he may not realize the engine needs to come out or be tilted to get to the stator. The OEM stator is + gasket cost me about $440 alone. Plus the cost of 7 hrs of labor. And that was a Kawasaki dealership with so called “trained” mechanics.
Or, maybe your guy is just really good
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