|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-13-2019 09:22 PM|
|DaParvize||Nevermind. I just searched your profile and saw the updates in another post. Sorry.|
|04-13-2019 09:20 PM|
|DaParvize||Anything ever come of this??? Did you figure it out?|
|11-10-2018 06:48 PM|
Originally Posted by BarryOregon View Post
I wouldn't adjust the clutch yet. But, if you remove the clutch arm, take note of where the clutch arm is located on the splined clutch shaft (bottom of left side cover). The stock setup has the split on the arm aligned with a dot on the splined shaft. Sometimes people will slip the arm ahead one spline to get more pull on the cable. Just put yours back the way it sits now.
|11-10-2018 03:53 PM|
|BarryOregon||Thanks for the picture and help. I'll not be able to remove the left cover for a few more days but it seems I can get to the pawl without too much extra effort. If I have to replace the pawl is it a good idea to also change the spring? Also, should I adjust the clutch and cable at the same time?|
|11-09-2018 06:15 PM|
|Thorn||I think the 'microsurgery' post was about a bend shift linkage. The pawl should be much easier to access, though the frame blocks some of the bolts. spinning it out of the way may be possible.|
|11-09-2018 12:07 PM|
I've never been in there, but one forum member was able to work through the holes in the inner case, he said it was like microsurgery.
If you could find that old post in the search, he gave quite a bit of detail. Shift pawl, should be a good search term.
Think you'll have to at least tilt the engine to clear the stator cover and shifter shaft. But you can leave a lot of items connected if just tilting.
|11-09-2018 10:44 AM|
|BarryOregon||I'm going to try and remove the left side cover this weekend. I'll see what the pawl looks like and post pictures. If the pawl is bent should I try to bend it back or replace with known good one? Also am I correct in thinking I can pivot the left side cover out of the way enough to get to the pawl?|
|11-09-2018 08:59 AM|
#3 or #4.
I lean toward it being a bent pawl, on the left side. If the shifter was pushed upwards, that could bend the upshift side of the pawl. It could still reach 1st, but the throw is shortened enough to not reach for upshift.
A bent rod on the right side would make the shift throw shorter, but it seems that should affect all shifts.
The pawl (left side)
|11-08-2018 10:55 AM|
Okay, good to know the balls won't be the problem.
The frame does not limit travel, plenty of clearance for both up and down shifts.
Doesn't seem to be internal, although being unfamiliar with a vulcan 750 might mean i'm not aware of what the little idiosyncrasies are.
I have been thinking it might be the pawl but have yet to remove the clutch cover. I understand that cover can be rotated out of the way enough to get at the pawl and spring without loosening engine mounts. I just want to try and narrowe down where I need to look.
At least going into winter I have the time to explore. Thanks for the insights.
|11-08-2018 02:46 AM|
I think the positive neutral finder is an unlikely culprit (though it could certainly cause the problem). The three ball-bearings would ALL need to fail to get a complete disengagement of second gear. The location of the balls is not likely to get gunked up, being sandwiched between the transmission output shaft and the ID of a gear, so a triple failure would be a rare occurance, and probably unrelated to a lay-down.
A couple non-PNF ideas:
1. The shift lever might be bent. Is the frame limiting it's travel?
2. If it's hitting the frame, the shift lever might be rotated on the shaft one spline.
3. The internal linkage rod might be bent, causing the pawl to not be pushed far enough when shifting (but I think a bent rod would make it harder to downshift, not harder to upshift)
4. The one arm of the shifter pawl might be bent, preventing it from pushing on the drum cam. This can be accessed behind the left engine cover where the oil level sight glass is. I think this requires tilting the engine out of the frame to unscrew and remove?
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