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Carbs and Fuel System
From the gas tank to the carbs
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-11-2018 12:50 AM
roadpouring
Quote:
Originally Posted by MileHighVulcan View Post
=/ Hate taking that carb out, I'm at the point of just running the bike with choke and ignore the problem.
Ah, but it's such a wonderful feeling to know that the carbs are thoroughly clean and the machine is running like it ought to. Oh such response!
The remedy is to shrug the shoulders, slow down as though one had all the time in the world and.... "Endeavour to persevere!"
06-08-2018 08:23 PM
WilliamTech3
Quote:
Originally Posted by MileHighVulcan View Post
=/ Hate taking that carb out, I'm at the point of just running the bike with choke and ignore the problem.
Rusty Tank ? .

WilliamTech3
06-08-2018 08:20 PM
WilliamTech3 Rusty tank ? .

WilliamTech3
06-08-2018 05:52 PM
Spockster
Quote:
Originally Posted by MileHighVulcan View Post
=/ Hate taking that carb out, I'm at the point of just running the bike with choke and ignore the problem.
Could work, until the dirt clogs the choke circuit, then it won't run or start. Seafoam can't help if the gas doesn't flow through.
06-08-2018 04:03 PM
MileHighVulcan
Quote:
Originally Posted by GDI View Post
Your idle circuit is messed up. Remove the carbs from the bike. Remove the idle screws, and spray some carb cleaner in there. Let it sit for a few minutes to loosen up the gunk, then blow it out with compressed air.

If you're not familiar with carbs, take a look at this schematic to get an idea of what I'm describing.




https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ka...rburetor-parts


You'll need to be careful with the idle screws (Part 16014 in the schematic). They have a spring to put tension on them, a small washer and a small o-ring in there. You want to remove all that stuff *before* you start spraying cleaner in there or blowing with compressed air.

After you're finished cleaning and you go to put the carbs back together, you want to screw the idle screws all the way in (gently--they're brass and very delicate), and then count the number of turns as you loosen them. You probably want to start with 2 1/4 turns out or so.

GDI

=/ Hate taking that carb out, I'm at the point of just running the bike with choke and ignore the problem.
06-07-2018 11:35 PM
GDI Your idle circuit is messed up. Remove the carbs from the bike. Remove the idle screws, and spray some carb cleaner in there. Let it sit for a few minutes to loosen up the gunk, then blow it out with compressed air.

If you're not familiar with carbs, take a look at this schematic to get an idea of what I'm describing.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ka...rburetor-parts


You'll need to be careful with the idle screws (Part 16014 in the schematic). They have a spring to put tension on them, a small washer and a small o-ring in there. You want to remove all that stuff *before* you start spraying cleaner in there or blowing with compressed air.

After you're finished cleaning and you go to put the carbs back together, you want to screw the idle screws all the way in (gently--they're brass and very delicate), and then count the number of turns as you loosen them. You probably want to start with 2 1/4 turns out or so.

GDI
06-07-2018 10:37 PM
MileHighVulcan Got the metal plate off and try adjusting both screw but it seem as the bike wouldn't run without choke at all... I try closing it on both carbs and opening it *screw closer to me* Im still not able to run the bike without some choke. I still need to try to open the screw to see if the bike would die while coming to a stop or slow down while riding.
06-07-2018 08:37 PM
michiganteddybear yes the mixture screw lives behind that plug.. its soft, be careful drilling it, really just need a hole in it so that you can stick something in and pry it out
06-07-2018 08:27 PM
MileHighVulcan So, to get to the fuel switch screw I would have to drill both of the plate out to get to the screw ?
06-07-2018 05:19 PM
Spockster
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
Well I have not done what we call an "earshave" here, so not sure what exactly needs to be done, but I do know the air lines running to the reed valves suck air from the filter system, so now yours is not filtered. Ditto for the crankcase vent.

Perhaps someone more familiar with the installation of pod filters can chime in....
Need to block off the reed boxes.
Need a filter on the crankcase vent hose.

Removing the air box frees up a lot of space, makes carb service easier. The airbox is just riding along now.

Are the carb vents still running into one ear? Ears still in place? Vents need to be in calm, still air.
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