|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-11-2017 07:18 PM|
Originally Posted by manyhats07 View Post
Sounds like your volts are right up there, some drop is normal during fan operation, yours is right where it should be. If it's not running lean, a cooling system flush/clean may be needed for the temperature problem.
|10-11-2017 07:13 PM|
|10-11-2017 06:47 PM|
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
This is my Dad's bike and he wanted me to change as little of the wiring as possible. I connected the r/r to the old wiring. I noticed an improvement from cold, but as the bike stayed on and warmed up, the level of charge decreased to the point of not charging (by the end it was at 11.7 volts @ 3k rpm) The stock wiring was extremely hot to the touch. The wires are tiny in comparison to what came with the r/r. I think they get so hot that the resistance in them goes up, limiting the current through them.
I wound up connecting the r/r directly to the stator using 10 gauge wire and did the blue wire mod. I get 14.5 volts from cold to warm up, then it goes down to 13.2-13.5 when the cooling fan kicks on and stays steady there. The bike runs pretty hot, so it may need a tune-up/carburetor cleaning and adjustment.
It doesn't seem to have any trouble starting with the headlight on, but I was considering adding a toggle switch just in case he ever had trouble starting the bike.
|10-06-2017 01:35 PM|
That thicker aluminum plate will be a really good heatsink for the r/r.
I just taped up the stock r/r plug and tucked it out of sight, haven't seen it since.
The MOSFET wiring is really simple, 5 wires and you're all done, if you don't use the stock wiring. 3 stator legs, one hot, one ground to the battery.
If you want the headlight relay function, you just need to connect that wire (yellow/red?) to one leg of the stator wiring. Double check me on that wire color. The AC volts from the stator is what triggers the headlight relay.
I originally had my headlight relay connected, but ditched it before I even rode any. With the AGM battery, it's never been a problem.
|10-06-2017 10:53 AM|
It's my advice to bypass the stock r/r harness, it will save a lot of problems.
You can still use the stock headlight setup if you want, but it's also my advice to do the blue wire mod. Any function you can remove from the Junction Box, the better off you'll be down the road. It just eliminates a future failure.
|10-06-2017 10:28 AM|
The FH020AA came in, so hopefully I'll have it put together this weekend. I'm still trying to decide if I want to connect it straight to the stator wires, or go through the existing harness. I think I would have to do the blue wire mod if I went straight to the stator.
I have a fair bit of leftover 1/8" aluminum angle, c-channel and 1/4" plate from a homemade CNC build. I couldn't get the plate to bend without cracking, so this is what I came up with:
|10-02-2017 09:37 AM|
|michiganteddybear||yup, thats just how I did mine|
|10-01-2017 11:24 PM|
Don't have a pic yet, but there's one in the link below. Same location, my bracket is a 90° bend in both bends, I left a smaller gap between the JB and r/r. But there's plenty of room to work with. Nice thing about a cardboard pattern, you can mess up 100 times and costs nothing. I did it in one try.
See post #4 by thtanner. If you can find the thread he posted on his job, he has more pics there. https://www.vn750.com/forum/70-projec...relocated.html
|10-01-2017 09:03 PM|
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
|10-01-2017 08:53 PM|
The mosfet I used was larger than stock, so I put it under the left side cover.
The aluminum bracket I made, bolts up to 2 bolts on the battery box. I made a template with card paper to get the bends right and traced it to the plate. You'll want a bit of space between the r/r bracket and the Junction Box.
I used the bottom of an aluminum frying pan, easy to bend/cut, it's rigid, and sheds heat well.
MOSFET is good, gets all the charging system out of the Junction Box, eliminates stock r/r wiring.
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