|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-24-2017 10:37 PM|
Truthfully, I have no idea how old the battery is, but I'm betting it's nearing the 3-year mark if not already past it. Bike was purchased second-hand from a local stealership that *knew* the stator was bad when I bought it. The battery it came with survived for a mile off the parking lot :-(. Dealer replaced the battery free with the stock/standard wet lead acid, which survived long enough for us to get the bike home. I'm guessing that was back in late 2010 or early 2011, because my join date for this forum was March 28, 2011, and that probably correlates well with the first stator replacement I did. Given it's now 6+ years later, I'd be surprised if it's not time to replace the battery again. Not going to screw around this time with the least expensive AGM I can find that has the right labeling :-(.
The bike *does* start and run well, as long as I don't let it sit parked for more than a week. Beyond that interval, I've discovered it's "a good idea" to put the bike on a charger for a while to replace what the clock/thermometer/voltmeter has drained. Frankly, it will still start after sitting for a month, but I'm pretty sure that constitutes abuse of the charging system: *lots* of cranking required with the choke closed before she'll fire-up, fully-charged battery or not. She starts readily if I don't let her sit longer than a week.
Normal failure mode for the motorcycle batteries I've owned is failure under load (shorted/dead cell). That normally manifests as the battery not holding a charge "deep enough" to run the starter, and after the attempt (when the surface charge on the battery has been bled off), the voltage across the battery is much lower than before the start attempt. I ain't there yet with this battery, so while it may be nearing the end of its useful life, it doesn't seem quite ready to leave me stranded somewhere.
|07-24-2017 06:24 PM|
How old is the battery?
It is possible for a weak battery to pull peak charge voltage down. As long as it is starting and running ok, I wouldn't worry too much, but a new battery may show a better charge rate on the bike.
|07-24-2017 06:18 PM|
As KM said, you should see 12.6v or higher. AGMs are better than usual, mine held 13.1v for several months just sitting.
Only time I've seen 15v was with a really loose battery terminal. The meter pegged to the blue 15v light.
|07-24-2017 05:11 PM|
Voltmeter vs. multimeter: usually in agreement :-).
I like the dashboard mod. Particularly approve of battery-powered or mechanical clock vs. my digital one. Thinking seriously about migrating to a setup something like yours, because I just don't see a standalone voltmeter drawing anywhere near the juice my "swiss army" voltmeter/clock/thermometer does. Just out of curiosity (if the information is handy), what *is* the current draw on your meter?
|07-24-2017 04:36 PM|
Have you checked the voltmeter against a multimeter?
With a relatively new AGM the battery should be around 12.5 to 12.8 volts with the motor off. I've had readings as high as 14.9 volts while riding.
This of course is all moot as long as the bike is starting and running without any problems.
Photo of my voltmeter with the bike off after four days sitting:
|07-24-2017 02:25 PM|
I didn't buy the voltmeter/clock/thermometer from J&P, but here's a link so y'all know what I'm trying to describe:
Show Chrome Accessories Digital 5-Function Volt Meter | ZZ73218 | J&P Cycles
|07-24-2017 02:15 PM|
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
The voltmeter on the bike is from one of those cruiser customizing vendors out in California, and includes a clock and dual temperature sensors -- interior and exterior. The former sensor is built into the device head, whereas the exterior sensor is on a wire and can be located anywhere within reach: I've got it attached high along the left fork tube where I can get a meaningful reading of what's coming off the road while riding. The unfortunate part of deciding to go with this unit is the current draw even with the backlight turned off (when the ignition is off): I seem to remember the draw was somewhere around 500 mA without the backlight, and given that you *really* don't want to let this bike sit two weeks between rides without putting it on a tender, I'd say the current draw I remember is about right. With the voltmeter/clock/thermometer disconnected, there's no measurable current draw, so I don't have any electrical problems elsewhere in the system that I can detect.
The AGM battery seems to be a mixed blessing... When I take it out of the bike and put it on a charger, it will take a full charge: the "full charge" indicator lamp comes on after an appropriate amount of time for whatever discharge state the battery was in, just the way it's supposed to as the charger goes into "float" mode. Upon disconnecting the charger and leaving the battery out of the bike, the voltage eventually settles at 12.4V. Obviously it will stay there longer (at least a few days) without the bike's voltmeter attached.
|07-23-2017 12:09 PM|
Thanks for the report. 13.1-13.3v looks like an improvement, but the 12.6v with turn signal on isn't charging at all.
Seems to be more troubles somewhere. What's the battery voltage at rest?
|07-23-2017 12:08 AM|
Originally Posted by ubertalldude View Post
For what it's worth, the tpe-usa.com website is gone: DNS lookup fails. The last time Tim and I exchanged any stator-related e-mail was earlier this year. At that time, he could be reached at [email protected]
|07-22-2017 10:18 PM|
|ubertalldude||Voltage readings sound good. How is your voltmeter wired? And what R/R do you have installed right now?|
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