|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-11-2018 06:56 PM|
Originally Posted by One1 View Post
|05-07-2018 04:46 PM|
|One1||My frame is still perfect after 500 miles. Didn't expect any issues, but nice to know it's flexing is a non issue. I think my heat affected zones were very small. I've decided any more frame mods will be best using MIG with . 030 Lincoln SuperArc solid wire and C25 gas. The frame tube is thinner than expected. Good news for people more confident with MIG.|
|05-06-2018 11:39 PM|
|vulkan||Shop wants 650 to RnR that Stator...think they might be going with the "tilt" method.I say NO gonna pick it up do the frame mod.Hoping Mr Parrot can work with mine...requested his address through E_Mail.|
|05-04-2018 10:07 PM|
|vulkan||'Course the 'ol VN 750 in the shop now...when the battery "dies"...the bike "DIES" too!!So was getting by with trickle charger...you know ride good few miles,12-15 then start'er up head home to the trickle charger.But I figure its only a matter of time and that style riding probably not good for the bike/system either.(Also who the HELL wants to ride here/there a little...hope to make it home??)|
|07-20-2017 06:44 PM|
The stator legs were about 12 -15v AC . No short to ground, and all legs about the same. I am really considering the external alternator. Then, no more charging problems, and even if I am on a trip and the alternator goes out, I can pull into any auto parts store and change it in the parking lot, lol. I don't mind doing the stator job, but not knowing how long a new one will even last bothers me.
And as for the input on the two-wire and blue-wire mods:
I had no probs with cold starting before the 2-wire mod, but it does seem to start quicker, like almost instantly and I never have to choke, and never did.
I had probs before once in awhile with taking a few tries to start when hot, that seems to have been fixed by the 2-wire mod.
The blue wire mod worked fine for me, did not drain enough juice on start to notice slower cranking at all. I now run with no headlight or tail light fuse (Brake lights and signals still work) because I am riding with no stator and don't ride at night.
When and if I do the external Alternator mod, I will be getting rid of the JB with the help of the posts from this forum, and I have a service manual with all the wiring diagrams.
|07-20-2017 10:30 AM|
Yes, new stators come with a new grommet. What kind of shop does that sort of work?!!
What number did you get for AC volts? What do you get for DC volts at the battery now?
Thanks for the feedback on the Two-Wire Mod.
|07-20-2017 12:22 AM|
I put on a new stock R/R, the plug was fried, I put new terminal ends on the wires. I also removed the bullet connectors on the stator wires and soldered them. I checked every other electrical connection on the bike for corrosion or burnt signs. I did the two wire mod and the blue wire mod which helped my starting big time. I took the JB off and it looks fine, cleaned the two plugs on the JB real good with contact cleaner and the plugs look fine. I have AC output on all three stator wires but it is half what it should be and for some reason does not go up with throttle increase. The PO said he just paid a bike shop to fix it and has no idea what stator they put in it. I have a feeling that they put in a used stator, since there was no grommet on the stator wires where they leave the sidecase. Don't new stators have the grommet on the wires when you buy one?
|07-19-2017 04:15 PM|
Originally Posted by Vulcanlover View Post
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
|07-19-2017 04:15 PM|
|vulkan||OK ordered two of those damn things!!Goofy...you work for Amazon??...LOL.|
|07-19-2017 04:00 PM|
|vulkan||That's a cool little jump pack...I actually have room to carry cables...good info about the "donor" not running.Charged battery about 6-7 hours...starts fine since!!!(3-4 starts so far.)|
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