|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-29-2017 03:36 PM|
|vulkan||Parked the Vulcan last Thur...did NOT turn petcock off.Bike started today (Mon) just fine!!|
|04-17-2017 05:44 PM|
|vulkan||Well ok then....no sticky float!!!Awsome!!I guess......|
|04-13-2017 04:23 PM|
unless you have an aftermarket petcock, fuel should not flow unless it's on prime,as these petcocks are vacuum operated.if you had a sticky float,you would still flood when idling, and bike wouldn't idle well
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
|04-13-2017 03:59 PM|
|vulkan||Oboy....forgot to turn Petcock off. So here we go (was told I had a sticking float) thought now be a bitch to start...could have a gas flooded piston chamber.Hit start button...started just fine!!Sooo....could be that fixing the choke cable "fixed" the hard start issue??Maybe no sticky float??|
|04-05-2017 03:01 PM|
|vulkan||Been riding good few weeks now....no issues!!(Long as I remember to turn Petcock "off").|
|03-07-2017 08:45 AM|
|vulkan||Oh and rode Vulcan to work today (5:30 am) seemed to start/run fine.|
|03-07-2017 08:34 AM|
|vulkan||Guy at shop swears by this stuff...though I mentioned seafoam.So I added a bit of this K100...hope it will "unstick" the float!!|
|03-06-2017 10:04 AM|
Originally Posted by vulkan View Post
|02-26-2017 12:11 PM|
I've podded and tuned more of these carbs than I care to remember and got them all running like champs. I second yanking the intake. You'll likely need to rejet a bit and/or shim the carbs even with stock exhaust. I've posted a rejetting calculator on this and other forums.
If it's running like crap, 95% of the time it's in the carbs, not a vacuum leak or anything else. Spray carb cleaner or something else flammable around the intake boots when it's running to check for leaks. Once it catches, you should be able to keep it running with a touch of throttle and no choke until it's warm. If not, you've got carb issues.
I'm sure you can get that choke cable on though. Loosen the handlebar adjuster, insert the bead on the carb end and then fit the metal L-bend into its bracket on the carbs. If you need to, you can disassemble the choke lever to pull the bead otu of that end for slack.
You CAN do the carbs single-handed but it's 10x easier with a helper to pry up on the plastic intake plenum while you insert/remove them. Give it a good hard pry, and it's almost as easy as on a "shaved" and podded bike. You don't even need to take off the plenum-to-carb boots. Just be sure you leave the front carb-to-head boot on the head, and the rear comes out with the carbs. And keep them aligned rotationally. There's a little nub of rubber that aligns with a nub of metal on the heads.
|02-26-2017 11:48 AM|
Ive done this a few times, much easier after the first time. If you have stock air-box I highly suggest trashing it, earshaving and rejetting as needed accordingly.
Several of the posted pictures with labels were exactly what I needed to get mine right, but keep all the cables in stock position and length. no jerry rigging here.
YOU can do this - you'll be happier you saved money and know the bike better for it. are you confident your carbs are truly all in good order internally and linkage assembly. I learned there are a few mistakes you or another can make if you ever disassembled the rods and linkages.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|