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Thread: 2003 Vulcan 750 Stator replacement Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-15-2015 01:23 AM
Spockster You may not have to use anything to wedge the engine, like I did with the mallet. I got to do the whole job twice because I installed the damper gear 180 out of phase the first time. On the final tilt, we reached a point where it was better to wedge than move the engine further.

The first tilt went better and the shifter cleared the frame, as in the pic below. Note the second black strap.

You can also see the damper gear installed 180 out, big pin in the big hole, wrong! It goes big pin in the little hole. The bike shook so bad, you couldn't see the handgrips.

10-14-2015 10:17 PM
Spockster You can really use another person helping, I had a helper when I tilted mine. You don't want to accidentally drop the engine off the jack, would probably stretch or break something.

We worked methodically and let slack off the strap slowly while changing the angle of the engine by pulling the jack from the side.

Then we stuck that 5" wood mallet in there to angle the shifter shaft up away from the frame. (top left in first pic)

Be sure and check the balancer dampers while you have the stator cover off Check for cracked rubber or a wobbly gear.
10-14-2015 10:04 PM
Originally Posted by TreQuinn View Post
Thanks Spokster. I will go out and grab a floor jack after work. Do I need to take off all of the air intake before "tilting" the engine?
For mine, the airbox, intake hoses, ears, and all the reed valve hoses were removed before I pulled the engine. Seemed easier to do the earshave and coasters right then to gain the extra space. It's tight with the airbox in, but it can be done. Will probably have to take off the ducts and pry or tie the airbox upward,

It's possible to get the driveshaft back in by working only at the front. But having the rear drive off allows turning and pushing the driveshaft with your other hand while lifting up the front with the other. You can turn the rear wheel to rotate the shaft. The front of the driveshaft was put on the splines first, then the engine comes backward to line up on the engine mounts.

(mine got a rear tire and spline lube at the same time)
10-14-2015 09:11 PM
OleDirtyDoc I put a motorcycle jack under the motor and just rolled it out with jack
10-14-2015 06:48 PM
Originally Posted by TreQuinn View Post
So I do not need to take the rear end off? what is the best way to hold the engine while I remove it from the frame?
I usually remove the wheel so I don't need to remove the bevel gears. Also I remove all the engine mounts. I remove the mount brackets off the frame too.
10-14-2015 02:21 PM
TreQuinn Thanks Spokster. I will go out and grab a floor jack after work. Do I need to take off all of the air intake before "tilting" the engine?
10-14-2015 01:20 PM
Spockster It's a good idea to tie or block the centerstand forward so it can't fold up if the bike is jostled forward while moving the engine around.
10-14-2015 01:12 PM
Spockster Using scissor jacks, about the only way is using brute strength to lift and move the engine off the jacks and off the frame.

I knew I didn't want to lift the engine by myself (bad back), so I did the tilt. The ratchet strap was there to catch it if it came off the jack, and also gave me up/down and changed alignment when I needed it. There were times when the jack was let completely off, and the engine stayed put.

Don't need to pull the rear, it's just a little harder to manipulate the front driveshaft yoke back onto the bevel splines.

The wheels of the floor jack allowed me to slide the engine outward enough to clear the shifter shaft when tilted. You don't want to tweak on the shifter shaft and break the internal linkage, have to split the engine to fix that.

10-14-2015 12:41 PM
TreQuinn So I do not need to take the rear end off? what is the best way to hold the engine while I remove it from the frame?
10-14-2015 11:00 AM
OleDirtyDoc The driveshaft will slide off the motor.
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