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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-05-2010 01:46 PM
flitecontrol I know NADA is region specific, not sure about KBB. KBB has always been high IMO.
09-05-2010 06:27 AM
There is a big difference between KBB & NADA Guide

On a yr 2000 VN 750. KBB is $2400, while NADA is $1700. Seems like a
pretty large discrepancy, I wonder why?
09-04-2010 10:20 PM
CW-4 Guess I got a good deal. I just got my '00 750 last week, moving up from a United Motors 250 cruiser. 11,200 miles, bags, the extension on top of the sissy bar, Memphis windshield, tires less than 6 months old, but had a broken choke cable. He asked 2400, I offered him 1900. He took my offer, of course it helped that I handed him a printout of the NADA showing $1850 as average retail. Kelly Blue Book for some reason list the bike $500 higher. I didn't take the Kelly printout with me.
09-03-2010 01:01 PM
RandyHillyard I paid $2100.00 last year for my 750 from an individual. I bought my tires online and changed them myself, both for under $200. These were Dunlops. It had 31,000 miles on it and was in good condition. Even with the low miles on the one you're looking at it still isn't worth more than the book price. It will be a good bike though, I love mine.
09-03-2010 10:59 AM
Ironman Whenever you go looking at a used 750, take a small multimeter with you. Doesn't have to be anything top-of-the-line. You have to know if the bike's electrical system is producing the kind of voltage is should be. Take the seat off by removing the two bolts located in the tool box. (You should bring your own 10mm socket, it'll just be easier) You have to measure the voltage across the battery while the engine is turning 2500 rpm. Multimeter leads with clips will make this a one man job. Without clips, have the owner work the throttle while you take the measurement. At 2500 rpm, you should get 13.5 volts or more. If the voltage doesn't come up from when the bike was turned off, there's a problem with the charging system. And that is really bad news for the owner of the bike. If it's the stator, replacement runs around $800 including the labor. It can be done at home, but it's a big job. It could be the R/R, which is a lot easier to replace. Anyway, it's now an official fixer-upper and no longer worth anywhere near what was being asked. Best to just walk away.

Don't be fooled by the bike starting and purring like a kitten. It can run for about 20 minutes on just a freshly charged battery.

Good luck.
09-02-2010 07:33 PM
peerless Bottom line: I wouldn't pay near that. You can do better from a private seller; maybe not with that low mileage, but still a much better deal than that probably with some mods already done. Just my opinion though, take it for what it's worth.
09-02-2010 05:36 PM
OlHossCanada How to read tire date codes.

If their wear does not require them to be changed before this, tires are designed to last about six years. Beyond that, the rubber compound offers diminished adhesion and it may start to crack; the casing may also weaken.

To know the age of your tires, you can look at the date code on their sidewall.
The date code is found in a marking that follows one of the following formats:

first two characters: manufacturing plant identification mark
last four digits: date code (week / year)The other characters are left at the manufacturer's discretion.

Example: DOT U2VK 3ML 2602: In this case, the tire has been manufactured on the 26th week of 2002 -- in other words, in June 2002.

DOT XXXX XXXX XXX (older three-digit date code format)
first two characters: manufacturing plant identification mark
last three digits: date code (two for the week / one for the year)The other characters are left at the manufacturer's discretion.

Example: DOT P1RW B4LR 109: This particular tire was made on the 10th week of 1999.

DogFather, if the 2000 model year Vulcan you are looking at still has the original tires, it may have this 3 digit code.
09-01-2010 08:17 PM
flitecontrol I certainly wouldn't pay their asking price. But I am real cheap!

Look up how to read tire codes and see how old they are.

Pull a side cover and see if battery acid has spilled on the frame or electronics.

See if you can find out how old the battery is.

All the above can be used as negotiating points when you are discussing price.
09-01-2010 01:52 PM
Sloppyburpfest Hi DogFather,

Pay what you're comfortable with. Everything is up for negotiation.

A quick test ride should tell you all you need to know about how clean the carbs are. Look for engine stumbling, not revving cleanly or sticking.

New tires can go from $200 to $400 depending upon which tires and the labor costs involved. Good tires are cheap life insurance if you ask me. The stock tires are good enough to keep the bike on its sidestand. Ten year old tires will be worse.

The valves are self adjusting on VN750s.

Ditch the ten year old stock battery and get a new maintenance free battery.

09-01-2010 01:14 PM
Looking at 2000 Model VN 750

At a dealer near where I live. It has low miles (only 1100) and looks from the
photos to be in real good shape. Prices seems a little high. $3200, considering
blue book retail, is $2400. I would pay cash. I don't think the tires have been replaced, also wonder about the carbs, with it sitting for long periods of time.

So, I guess my questions are:

In this economy, shouldn't I pay less than book value?

What will a new set of tire cost...about?

Do the valves need adjusting on a VN750?

Anything else I should be thinking about?

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