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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-25-2010 11:03 AM
cglennon If your "bogging down and dying" is POOGS related, then here are the instructions for correcting POOGS on a Non-CA model. Note that the gas cap vent itself should be disassemble to clean it. Only 4 screws hold it together, so the process only takes a few minutes.

I just went through this on my ’06 (non-CA model), exact same situation too (stall at ½ tank gas). Try this (again '06 non-CA model, other models and CA emissions may differ):

Step 1: Clean the gas cap vent tube:

1. Place a piece of paper in front of the REAR tire
2. Open the gas cap
3. Spray carb cleaner into the vent tube located on the tank, near the base of the gas cap hinge. Use the straw attachment for the spray can.
4. Observe the drips onto the piece of paper. Continue spraying until it runs clear.

Step 2: Clean the gas cap vent mechanism

1. Open the gas cap and remove the key.
2. Cover the tank inlet tube with tape or a piece of paper to prevent dropping things in the tank. I used a large PostIt note, which worked well.
3. Remove the two brass screws that hold the latch mechanism on the bottom of the gas cap.
4. Remove the latch mechanism. Note: there is a loose component in the base that covers the latch spring. Be careful not to drop it into the tank during removal. Inspect the latch, clean as necessary (chances are this is NOT where the problem is), then set aside.
5. Careful not to loose the 5 small springs mounted on posts under the latch mechanism. You can leave them where they are or remove them for safe keeping.
6. Before proceeding remove the small collar from the male latch connector (look for the round key cylinder). The collar acts like a bearing when opening and closing the latch using the key. It is loose and easily lost. Slip it off and put it aside for safe keeping.
7. Remove the two short screws at the base of the gas cap vent, but DO NOT yank the vent off yet.
8. The vent gasket is glued to the cap (at least it was on mine) and the vent assembly might be stuck to the gasket. GENTLY, wiggle the vent back and forth to loosen it and prevent damage to the gasket.
9. With the vent assembly removed, inspect the gasket for tears or bulges. Spray with carb cleaner (just a little) and wipe with a clean cloth. Inspect the cloth for signs of debris.
10. Now for the root of the problem; Remove the small round plastic check valve/liquid separator located on the underside of the vent assembly. GENTLY ply it out, careful not to damage the silicone valve covering the base of the check valve. Remove the gasket as well and place it aside. Inspect and clean the check valve, ESPECIALLY the tiny 90 degree elbow which leads to the vent hole. NOTE: there is another silicone valve cover permanently mounted in the gas cap vent itself (part of the pressure release part of the valve). DO NOT attempt to remove it or you will damage it. Just make sure it is clean and functioning.
11. Now check the vent hole. Hold the vent assembly up to the light and look up from where the plastic check valve was mounted. See any light where that tiny 90 degree elbow fits? Follow the vent channels on the opposite side of the vent assembly. Any blockage? Unplug the holes and clean the channels.
12. Reassemble.

Step 3: Repeat Step 1 frequently (at least once a year) to prevent this from happening again.

UPDATE 5/5/2010: My Phantom has been uncloaked! I took a closer look at where/how the rubber vent tube exits in front of the rear tire. I found that the tube had been (and still is) rubbing against the rear tire. The 'black fluffy carbon' blocking my vent was probably rubber shavings caused by the vent tube rubbing against the tire. I've temporarily rerouted the vent tube to exit along side the coolant overflow tube to eliminate the vent tube/tire rubbing. I still plan to flush the vent once a year to reduce the possibility of dirt and dust reaching and blocking the actual gas cap vent.
07-25-2010 12:46 AM
OlHossCanada X2 to everything Bronson said.^^^^

At 3-4 K rpm it should be charging enough to keep the bike running.

Use a battery tender to keep it topped up when sitting for any period of time.

The bogging down and dying could be a blocked tank vent. (Phantom Out Of Gas Syndrome - POOGS.)

Try opening the tank cap to relieve vacuum in tank. Look for vent between hinge screws holding the cap to the tank. It exits at the nipple at the rear of the tank (under front edge of seat) and should be attached to a hose dropping down in front of the rear tire.

Clear the vent with compressed air or or WD-40. It can be plugged at the top or bottom. Watch for crap draining out the bottom.

Make sure the drain hose does not go to the emmision control canisters, if you have any. When the vent is working, you should be able to hear a small whistling or hissing sound coming from the tank after riding for a while.

We still don`t know if you have a MF battery or a wet one.
It will also help to know your battery voltage when running at 3-4 K rpm.

Hot and cold start problems are common, but usually much improved by installing MF battery and NGK Iridium spark plugs, #DPR7EIX-9.

Installing a voltmeter to monitor charging while riding is advised. If your stator dies, it requires an engine tilt or pull to replace it. Keep the stator clean and cooled with regular oil changes and keep oil filled to the upper level.

For more info on these suggestions, and others, read the link in my sigline.
07-24-2010 11:33 PM
llongshoreff I have had the bike since 08 and got a new battery last year. I usually ride rural around 3 to 4thousand rpm. I have also had a problem where I have been riding for a while and it starts to bog down and eventually dies. Then after 8 minutes of siting it starts back up just fine. I didn't know if the 2 problems were connected or not so I thought I would ask
07-24-2010 08:00 PM
Bronson Hi: Sounds like your battery is toast. Not holding a charge over the course of a week. Checking the voltage as above will give some indication. The MF agm batteries do seem to have more CCA, cold cranking amps, and tend to passively discharge at a much slower rate than conventional batteries. If you do have to replace it, that is a good way to go. The MF batteries do not leak acid when charging either, which is a plus.
These vulcans are demanding on batteries, and you have to take the seat off to do anything with the battery. I made some leads that conceal under the edge of the seat with bullet connectors on the ends to hook to a battery tender when I'm not riding for some time, not too often!
Hope the battery is all you need. If there are further issues, this is a great forum to diagnose the problem, and find good solutions.
07-24-2010 05:36 PM
OlHossCanada Need more details.
Are you a new rider?
Is this your first bike ane first experience looking after one?
Is the bike new to you recently, or just started having trouble with it.

Is your riding mostly slow speed stop and go around town, or steady highway riding with engine speed 3-4K rpm and higher?

How old is the battery?

Is it a wet cell that you have to add water to?

Or is it an Maintenance Free- AGM style?

Check your charging system voltage at the battery terminals with the engine at 4-5K rpm.
Voltage should be around 13.5 and vary with engine speed.

Answer above questions and tell us what voltage is, and we will work from there.

In general, if the battery is not MF-AGM and is more than a year old, change it out for a MF.
07-24-2010 03:01 PM
battery problem i think

I recently stared leaving my bike in the garage for weather problems. After 2 weeks I got it out and the battery was dead I jumped it and it ran fine for a few days. Then I put it back in the garage and a week later I did the same thing. Now another 2 weeks in the garage and the battery wont hold a charge and I can't ride it anywhere. What could be the problem

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