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Where does this wire go?
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Thread: Did 2 wire mod now bike dies when letting clutch out? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-14-2017 09:14 AM
Thorn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparkys73150 View Post
It says "no more starter lockout (pin 12) do away with this black wire? Sparkys73150
Not exactly sure what you're asking since pin 12 is yellow/green. You shouldn't disconnect that wire unless you're bypassing the interlock in addition to the starter lockout. (interlock bypass mod would require moving black/white wire from pin 14 to ground)
08-14-2017 06:51 AM
Sparkys73150 It says "no more starter lockout (pin 12) do away with this black wire? Sparkys73150
08-14-2017 05:28 AM
Thorn Not sure if MTB was referring to my most recent comment or not regarding the side stand and the 2-wire mod. I'll elaborate just in case ...

I suggested undoing the 2-wire mod so that the starter lockout circuit (prevents the starter motor from cranking and does not involve the kickstand) can be used to check the neutral switch instead of the interlock circuit (which prevents spark at the plugs and DOES involve the kickstand) which is how the OP reported doing the testing. By using the stock starter lockout circuit to test, a faulty kickstand switch is removed as a variable.

We know that the switch at the clutch is good, so that should give a 100% diagnosis on the neutral switch depending on whether or not the starter will crank with the bike in neutral and the clutch released.

With the 2-wire mod in place the starter would crank regardless of clutch or neutral.


A third, even easier check on the neutral switch would be to turn the ignition to 'on' and put the bike in neutral. The light should come on. If the light comes on, the switch is good. Period. If the light does come on, but the starter lockout test I outlined above still fails, you're looking at a bad wire between the junction box and the netural switch. Possibly damaged the green wire on pin 15 of the 10-wire connector when doing the 2-wire mod and/or ill-fated kickstand removal?
08-13-2017 10:44 AM
Spockster
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
2 wire mod does not affect side stand switch (at least it didnt in my version, where I left the wires attached to the jbox, and jumpered between them).

I had to bypass the side stand switch about a year after doing the 2 wire mod, because it (switch) started sticking on mine
Didn't affect my sidestand switch either.
08-13-2017 10:29 AM
michiganteddybear 2 wire mod does not affect side stand switch (at least it didnt in my version, where I left the wires attached to the jbox, and jumpered between them).

I had to bypass the side stand switch about a year after doing the 2 wire mod, because it (switch) started sticking on mine
08-12-2017 09:41 PM
Thorn
Quote:
Originally Posted by LLHO39 View Post
You need to study a wiring diagram. The diode logic (junction box) is pretty clear. Three things are involved. Any one of those ALLOWS the bike to run. Side stand up, in neutral, clutch in. These are done by any of the three switches pulling the voltage on the B/W wire from the junction box to the ignitor being held near zero.

In the situation you describe I guess it is the NEUTRAL SWITCH that is NOT closing. In neutral neither the clutch nor the side stand kills the motor. To test this short the junction box green wire to ground.

If the neutral switch is not closing both the clutch out or the side stand down SHOULD kill the engine.

Spockster: The side stand switch being open means the side stand is DOWN (according to Clymer)
An alternate test would be to put the bike in neutral and try to start the bike without pulling the clutch lever. If the starter motor won't crank then it indicates that the neutral switch or associated wiring is faulty. That eliminates the kickstand as part of the equation. In stock configuration of course (2-wire mod not performed).
08-12-2017 07:44 PM
Spockster
Quote:
Originally Posted by LLHO39 View Post

Spockster: The side stand switch being open means the side stand is DOWN (according to Clymer)
Right, that's why I said disconnecting the green/white is the same as the switch being open (sidestand down - engine stalls).
08-12-2017 07:12 PM
LLHO39 You need to study a wiring diagram. The diode logic (junction box) is pretty clear. Three things are involved. Any one of those ALLOWS the bike to run. Side stand up, in neutral, clutch in. These are done by any of the three switches pulling the voltage on the B/W wire from the junction box to the ignitor being held near zero.

In the situation you describe I guess it is the NEUTRAL SWITCH that is NOT closing. In neutral neither the clutch nor the side stand kills the motor. To test this short the junction box green wire to ground.

If the neutral switch is not closing both the clutch out or the side stand down SHOULD kill the engine.

Spockster: The side stand switch being open means the side stand is DOWN (according to Clymer)
06-26-2017 06:11 PM
Tattz Well, took the switch apart and cleaned it, no stalling with it not attached to the clutch. Soon as I screwed it back together, dead bike. Took it back off but left it connected and zip tied it the handlebar and ripped it down the road no problem. Thanks all for the help
06-26-2017 05:35 PM
Tattz Just for giggles I unscrewed my clutch switch and started the bike. With it idling in nuetral, when I depressed the plunger a few times, the bike stalls. Safe to say it's bad?
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