|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-25-2017 12:13 PM|
Those filters look NASTY!
Glad you got it up and running right
|05-24-2017 10:59 PM|
After changing the plugs along with the air filters, it's running great.
Here's what I found as far as the air filters
Installed new K&N air filters
|05-20-2017 05:19 PM|
Carbs aren't bad at all. Another user made this album which is a huge help
Keihin Carburetors - Album on Imgur
|05-19-2017 10:39 PM|
I changed the spark plugs, and cracked open the air filters - the foam on one has disintegrated... two new filters on the way.
Since changing the plugs and getting the loose foam out of the filter box, the problem seems to be gone.
My only concern, there was a slight amount of oil on the threads of each spark plug - is that normal?
Found this on another site:
"While it may look like dirty oil, it isn't, this is unburnt fuel that all the lighter elements in the fuel have boiled off leaving the heavier hydrocarbon components behind. This is not unusual to find even on race engines. I wouldn't have known this myself if I hadn't run acrossed the explanation from a very respected pro engine builder on another site. This "fuel" is here because the seal(tapered seat or gasket) is above the threads but the threads themselves are shielded from the actual combustion process. Almost sounds crazy but it is true."
|05-13-2017 10:28 PM|
carbs ain't as bad as most think
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
|05-13-2017 08:07 PM|
|Golf||Not sure if I can tear down a carb and actually get it back together in working order. I've never done it but there are a lot of parts I haven't heard of and aren't exactly sure what they are, do or look like. My mechanical experience stops around changing fuel pumps, wheel hubs, brakes, fuel rails, a/c, etc... I've never changed heads, valves, cams, set timing or anything on the bottom end. I can replace a clutch, or u joints... the easy stuff|
|05-13-2017 07:43 AM|
Your are headed in the right direction. Personally I would pull the carbs, completely tear them down and inspect the pilot jets, main jets, all the tiny passageways and the deaceleration valve on the
exterior of the carb. Low miles is a good thing but old gas is bad, which clog the pilot jets and passage ways of the carb. Running Seafoam is good but it will not clean up varnished clogged jets.
The valve on the exterior has a diaphragm that could be dried out and cracked.
|05-12-2017 10:40 PM|
New 06 VN750 Not Running Right?
I purchased the bike 5/1 with 8900 miles. He was the original owner...
First thing I did was change the oil, using Valvoline Motorcycle 10-40 - second thing was to change the final drive oil with part synthetic 80-90 gear oil and throw some Seafoam in the tank.
Few other things I have planned such as the coolant and lubing the splines from what I've read, but I'm having another issue with the bike. It's like the bike isn't running smoothly, bogging down then picking back up when barely any throttle is applied, like low speed manuvers. On the ride home on the interstate the bike acted like it wanted to bog down but giving it some more throttle cleared it out. When it did it this evening I opened to fuel tank door and let it sit for a few minutes and then went and filled it up (was at 1/2). I've researched and read about the POOGS, but I'm not sure if that's what is going on. After I filled it up and I rode it home, cruising between 3-4000 RPM it just didn't feel smooth - also popping decelerating with throttle closed.
I have experience with fuel injection car engines, but these are a little out of my comfort zone... Could it be POOGS, spark plugs, fuel pump, carbs... I'm just hoping it isn't catastrophically failing and the guy knew it and that's why he sold it - but he said he never really rode it - just cranked it every now and then, kept a battery tender on it... dunno if it's gummed up, hence the seafoam,
Any insight/previous experiences would be greatly appreciated!