I admire initiative and determination, but reinventing the wheel just ain't necessary. The most comprehensive list of fork specs I know of is in a little pc of work titled "The Jap Bike Bible". For a list of HUNDREDS of specs, including other important details like axle size, bearings, neck sizes and such, try this link
Naturally, the one missing pc of info is the overall length.
I can tell you from my own front end conversion that the forks from a FZ600 are a slip in operation, give you much better valving and the handling is unreal compared to stock. You'll need a new 600 fender and the fender mount is actually a fork brace on the FZ so it's a double win-win. As the axle center is directly under the tube center, the rake remains the same but you eliminate 1.375 (one and three eigths) of trail, putting you at 3.65 inches trail and 32 degrees rake. The bike remains rock solid at speed, but the low speed handling (that wallowy fall over and wander sensation) is totally gone. Also, the slow high speed feel (loved by H-D guys, hated by MOTORCYCLE riders) is gone. Think about it and it turns, No more frame wobble crossing centerlines and bridge grates (tried on stock Dunlops, a Shinko front and a Pirelli front with a darkside Kuhmo rear<<an awesome x 2 combo)!)
And now to add to your list, I'll add that measuring other bikes in my garage. All measurements are wheel off the ground (fork extended) and from top of tube (not including any caps or pressure fittings) and fro tube top to axle centerline.
1975 Kaw Z1 = 30.375 inches long
2001 H-d Sportster xl1200 = 30.5
1986 VN750 = 33.5
2008 Yam VMax = 34
P.S., I finished the 34 to 36 mm carb mod and the digital NO2 addition to my "stock" VN750 as mentioned waaaay back as a project in the works. Showing 77 Hp @ 8200 on gas and 92 on the juice @ 9200. And the engine is holding up just fine, thank you!