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post #21 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-13-2012, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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As I have been digging around the internet for the past week or so, I think I might have also found some final drives that will swap with ours... not 100% sure yet, so I will add the wheel and final drive combos after I have finished my research.
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post #22 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-13-2012, 08:23 PM
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Would be great to find one with a spoked wheel, because thats wht Id like to go to. Front and rear both...black or red rims, and a fat whitewall !



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post #23 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-13-2012, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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I like your thinking... if its not raining tomorrow, I am going to see if I can pull some build numbers off of my final drive to see who built it, and what other final drives would work... I have a hunch that the 81-83 Viargo 750 might be a candidate.
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post #24 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-13-2012, 11:36 PM
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Funny you should mention the Virago...I think I read that elsewhere too.



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post #25 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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I know for a fact the Viargo Front end works, and I have heard rumors that its the same final drive just a different pinion shaft.
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post #26 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-15-2012, 06:51 PM
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Question, can a person take an angle grinder and take the metal off of the upper tree where the gauges and ignition switch are mounted? IMO I don't think it would weaken the upper tree. I could be wrong, but it looks like there would still be plenty of metal left to support the handlebars. Wouldn't the bulk of the weight be on the lower part of the triple tree?
And on post 13 to me the stock forks look like they are narrower at the bottom as opposed to the top, or is it just an optical illusion?
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post #27 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-15-2012, 07:15 PM
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1) yes, its an optical illusion, mostly because the lower tubes are fatter than the uppers.
2) and yes, you can grind down tabs. but remember, its cast alloy, so you need to make sure there's no seam there, and that the underside isnt hollow at that point. Else ya gotta build it up with aluminum using a TIG.
Also, when grinding, do it slowly and gradually so ya dont heat it up too much. Could cause a subliminal failure in the metal, and we wouldnt want that, would we ?



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post #28 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-15-2012, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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TSmith, you could grind/cut off the tabs, and I have thought several times to do just that, and every time I pick up my grinder to do it... this is what I see in my head....



which is definitely not sexy
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post #29 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 10:39 PM
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http://www.paughco.com/2008-catalog/...-springers.pdf

Page 19. Lil costly, but similar can be made/found for less. Saw a set on ebay once foe $150.



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post #30 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 05:03 AM
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Looking at that slim, I can see how it would be a PITA. A LOT of work to cut the metal away where the ignition switch and the rest of the metal in the center is. Looks like it would be fairly easy to bugger it up beyond repair.
Has anyone adapted a springer to their bikes? Or would it be possible at all.
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