Stator Replacement Project - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 175 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
Glenn C.
 
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Stator Replacement Project

Ok guys (not sure if this is the right section area for this thread, if not the admins can move it).
I started doing some dis-assembly on the bike today getting it ready for replacing the stator.

1. Put the bike on the stand.
2. Drain Oil, remove filter, put oil plug back in.
3. Removed front footpegs floorboards.
4. Removed Shifter and Brake Levers.
5. Removed my saddle Bags.
6. Removed my custom Hitch.
7. Removed Exhaust and the goats belly.
8. Removed the ears/air cleaner/air filter things.

Will drain the coolant tomorrow, and remove the gas tank.
And then get it up on my stand, and start removing the rear tire and spline shaft (will also re-lube my splines, its been two years now).

Not sure what other cables, wires, and other stuff i still have yet to do.

I am taking tons of pics, each step, one by one... its a long process.

View Day 1 Pics HERE
http://www.gcextreme.com/VULCAN750/S...Day1/index.php

Glenn C
Alexandria, MN
My VN750 Page
VN750 Stator Plates and Products

2001 Kawasaki Vulcan VN750
1986 Kawasaki Vulcan VN750 (being restored)
1986 Kawasaki 454LTD (being restored)
1985 Kawasaki 454LTD (being restored)
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post #2 of 175 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 01:56 AM
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Well the back tire doesn't have to come off to get the engine out, why not since you want to do the splines anyways. :P

Remove the cooling system, and all hoses. There is the engine ground, temp sensor, and a few other connections you'll have to remove. Remove the rear bevel gear case assembly. Ensure to watch the shift-rod or w/e you call the thing the shifter goes onto, as it wants to hit the case when you pull the engine. Remove those carbs, and enjoy that process thoroughly. :P

I found putting the bike on the center stand, and using cinder-blocks with carpet on them, the engine will wiggle right out (remove the metal coolant hose on the rear cyl, it pops right out, be gentle with the o-ring though).

I followed the Clymers manual and common sense. You shouldn't have an issue if you take your time and document the process, which it seems you are doing.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #3 of 175 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 09:30 AM
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Good luck with the project....and thanks for documenting with photos and sharing. I assume someday I will need to do this as well, so I am eager to observe and learn what is involved.

BTW: I love that hitch installation you have!
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post #4 of 175 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
Glenn C.
 
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Thanks guys.
Its going to be alot of work u know, I think the carbs scare me too.

My bud was talking about hydrolocking the motor if I don't get the air out of the coolant system when I refill it. How do I do this?

My hitch is a beast, taking it off and on really scratches up my rear fender.
Putting it on and aligning the bolt holes thru the grab rails and into the fender really sucks.

Glenn C
Alexandria, MN
My VN750 Page
VN750 Stator Plates and Products

2001 Kawasaki Vulcan VN750
1986 Kawasaki Vulcan VN750 (being restored)
1986 Kawasaki 454LTD (being restored)
1985 Kawasaki 454LTD (being restored)
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post #5 of 175 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 10:42 AM
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Why would you remove the carbs for a stator replace job?
I removed the front exhaust manifold.

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post #6 of 175 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
Why would you remove the carbs for a stator replace job?
I removed the front exhaust manifold.
The engine does not come out with the carbs on. Personally, I see no point of doing an engine tilt when you are already 95% there anyways.

The cooling system was not hard to fill back up for me. I left the 3 coolant bolts off the engine, and ran it until coolant was coming out of them. Plugged them up, and haven't had any cooling issues.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #7 of 175 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 02:11 PM
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I removed mine 2 days ago with the carbs intact. I just removed the carb cables.

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #8 of 175 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
I removed mine 2 days ago with the carbs intact. I just removed the carb cables.
That must have been a tight fit. Nice that you saved some time, though.

Since I went the cinder-block method, and not a jack, I don't think it would have slid out. Would have been nice to save that 30 minutes of fiddling, though.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #9 of 175 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 02:38 PM
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I removed the front manifold for better clearence for engine wiggling.

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #10 of 175 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 02:39 PM
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Yes it is a bit of a job working the throttle cables. It is doable.

02 honda sabre 1100
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