Pulling Engine to replace head gasket - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-30-2020, 07:09 PM
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For what it’s worth I shelled a good piece out to get the stator replaced last summer. Yes it’s an old bike but it is also from what I understand, the type of bike that if properly maintained will basically last and last. Of course I’m not telling someone how to spend their money, but if you like the bike then you decide what it’s worth. Nobody wants to take care of a money pit but if you got the motor open and can fix all the major issues once in for all it’s almost like starting fresh. But! If you’re eyeing a different bike and this is your way out then by all means have at it lol
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the help and advice!
I do love this bike. I don't have a clue what I would even replace it with. I take test rides on anything I can, and nothing has been quite like this! I just needed reassurance that it's worth it.

I am tackling the flywheel today, so I will add more pictures to the album along the way. If all goes well, I should be fully disassembled!


'89 VN750 Bought stock 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800. Wrecked once. 27454.5+ miles

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, straight pipes out of GB. 110/90 Front Tire. Pick-up coil mod. Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA r/r. USB Outlet + Voltmeter. Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages. Ear Shave (wo/ coasters) 40/140 NO shims 45MPG. MCCT conversion.

Planned modifications:
Custom LED turn signals. Windshield. Highway Pegs. (Possible) ignition adv. Tuxedo Mod. Ignition coil mod.
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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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I can get over my fear of eBay I suppose. I found a set of 8 used rocker arms for $24.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-Kawasaki...4AAOSwWkdeJGMW

Other than the one I have that is obviously worn (mated with the worn cam lobe), are the rest of mine showing significant wear? I don't know what new ones look like. For this price, I might as well replace all 8, and pick the best 8 out of the set of 16.

Do the cams and rockers have to wear in together, or can I mate new(ish) rockers with my old cams (the three camshaft that don't seem to be worn out)?

I will upload some close up pictures of mine, later this morning.


'89 VN750 Bought stock 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800. Wrecked once. 27454.5+ miles

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, straight pipes out of GB. 110/90 Front Tire. Pick-up coil mod. Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA r/r. USB Outlet + Voltmeter. Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages. Ear Shave (wo/ coasters) 40/140 NO shims 45MPG. MCCT conversion.

Planned modifications:
Custom LED turn signals. Windshield. Highway Pegs. (Possible) ignition adv. Tuxedo Mod. Ignition coil mod.
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 09:54 AM
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Ideally, and according to the manuals, rockers should be kept in their original positions. However, when parts must be replaced, there's no way to avoid mismatching the parts.

I would say as long as there aren't deep grooves or divots worn into the surface, it should be ok. Deep groove is one that catches your fingernail.

I have mixed used cams, rockers, and lifters from different engines and never had a problem. As long as there are no abnormal wear patterns mating, you should be good.

Noticed one or two rockers in the ebay listing, and your engine, have the rocker pad worn to one side. If you can match that to the lobe causing that, you may be better off. Seems to be a common wear pattern in this engine. It depends on the wear pattern seen on your replacement cam. edit: Just remembered, you're getting one new cam? If so, I think would choose a rocker with even wear on the pad. Are all those rockers the same size/shape, or are there differences like left/right, intake/exhaust?

Don't get the cams mixed up, that makes a huge headache.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 02-01-2020 at 02:20 PM. Reason: new cam
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 10:15 AM
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I would get a small container of cam assembly lube, the paste type, not the liquid. Apply it liberally to the rockers, cam lobes, and cam journals. The paste will cling to those spots for as long as it takes until the engine gets fired up the first time.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 12:25 PM
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In a perfect world, you could assemble the parts in the head, apply lapping compound, then spin the assembly with an electric motor until the surfaces are mated.

In that same perfect world, you could buy everything new.

I think I when I first fire it up, I'd try to keep the idle no lower or higher than 1500-1800rpm for the first 10-15 min., steady and moderately fast during the first warmup. Assuming there are no problems to handle, like leaks, running rough, etc. This should help with the surfaces mating. Break-in period for a new cam/lifters is usually 20-30 minutes at around 2000rpm, then allow the engine to cool completely.

You can probably just use the choke to manage rpm, but if it warms up quick, you'll have to twist the idle setting.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Disassembly is now complete!

A few words of advice to anyone who is looking to do this.

The flywheel removal tool is not needed. You can put a penny in the gears to lock the crankshaft. You can use an 18mm bolt to pry off the flywheel. I tried using the bolt that was suggested by other members of this forum. It probably would have worked, but the socket that I used as a spacer, was cheap and Chinese and it crushed my socket rather than pulling the flywheel off. Instead, I bought a 18 mm bolt. These bolts, coincidentally have a 27 mm head, which are perfect for removing the spark plug socket. I would have used the one that I purchased last week, but my Vise grips had destroyed the thread on that bolt (my local hardware store doesn't carry nuts for M18 bolts, oddly enough). So now I have two 18 mm bolts.

I recommend removing the rear cylinder before the front. When it came time to remove the cam gear for the rear cylinder, it was easiest to partially reassemble the front cam gear, so that I could mesh a penny in the gears to hold everything in place. Otherwise, it was very difficult to take the bolt off of the cam gear for the rear cylinder, without spinning the crankshaft. The book lists the front cylinder first.

For removing the clutch assembly, I put the transmission in gear, and held the bolt on the drive shaft output, while loosening the clutch assembly bolt.

The book is NOT clear about the clutch side cover bolts. There is quite a few. I didn't bother removing the circular cover, as I had to pull the whole side off anyways. I removed the bolts clockwise and laid them out left to right, for proper reassembly.

The 6mm head bolts are perfect for removing the cam mid gear idler shaft.

For both the clutch bolt, and the rear cam gear bolt, I used an impact wrench to loosen them.


'89 VN750 Bought stock 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800. Wrecked once. 27454.5+ miles

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, straight pipes out of GB. 110/90 Front Tire. Pick-up coil mod. Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA r/r. USB Outlet + Voltmeter. Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages. Ear Shave (wo/ coasters) 40/140 NO shims 45MPG. MCCT conversion.

Planned modifications:
Custom LED turn signals. Windshield. Highway Pegs. (Possible) ignition adv. Tuxedo Mod. Ignition coil mod.
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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
I would get a small container of cam assembly lube, the paste type, not the liquid. Apply it liberally to the rockers, cam lobes, and cam journals. The paste will cling to those spots for as long as it takes until the engine gets fired up the first time.
I didn't want to quote your longer post. 🙂

Thank you so much!


'89 VN750 Bought stock 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800. Wrecked once. 27454.5+ miles

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, straight pipes out of GB. 110/90 Front Tire. Pick-up coil mod. Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA r/r. USB Outlet + Voltmeter. Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages. Ear Shave (wo/ coasters) 40/140 NO shims 45MPG. MCCT conversion.

Planned modifications:
Custom LED turn signals. Windshield. Highway Pegs. (Possible) ignition adv. Tuxedo Mod. Ignition coil mod.
Jason Pittenger is offline  
post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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How does the clutch wear look? I took a close up picture of it. I know it's something that can be done with the engine in...but while I am here...

Same with water pump. Replace now? I am going to do the tuxedo mod, so I'm not worried about the stator at this time.

I had no issues with the clutch, water pump/cooling (other than leak) or stator when it was last runn


'89 VN750 Bought stock 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800. Wrecked once. 27454.5+ miles

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, straight pipes out of GB. 110/90 Front Tire. Pick-up coil mod. Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA r/r. USB Outlet + Voltmeter. Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages. Ear Shave (wo/ coasters) 40/140 NO shims 45MPG. MCCT conversion.

Planned modifications:
Custom LED turn signals. Windshield. Highway Pegs. (Possible) ignition adv. Tuxedo Mod. Ignition coil mod.
Jason Pittenger is offline  
post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Pittenger View Post
I didn't want to quote your longer post. 🙂

Thank you so much!
You're welcome. Yeah I got a bit windy earlier.

Clutch plate looks usable, no too hard to replace later.

Considerable buildup of carbon on the pistons and combustion chambers, I would clean all that off, gently. Pretty thick on top of the piston.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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