Pulling Engine to replace head gasket - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
from that angle, it definately looks worn.. check the follower for that lobe and see what it looks like.

If your replacing the cam, I would look at replacing both on that head, and if do-able, replace all 4 (both heads), and definately check the followers and such for all the valves
+1

Also make sure all the lifters (lash adjusters) still have spring action, not stuck.

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__________________________________________________ ____________
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Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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I'll have to check my budget for all 4 cams.

In the meantime, anyone have a flywheel holder tool and a rotor puller tool?


'89 VN750 Bought stock 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800. Wrecked once. 27454.5+ miles

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, straight pipes out of GB. 110/90 Front Tire. Pick-up coil mod. Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA r/r. USB Outlet + Voltmeter. Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages. Ear Shave (wo/ coasters) 40/140 NO shims 45MPG. MCCT conversion.

Planned modifications:
Custom LED turn signals. Windshield. Highway Pegs. (Possible) ignition adv. Tuxedo Mod. Ignition coil mod.
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 04:18 PM
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the flywheel/rotor (left side of engine, where the stator lives), the puller is just a bolt threaded into the end, and can be 'borrowed' from some place else on the bike, but my swiss cheese brain seems to have let the info leak out.

a clutch basket tool... not real expensive is you need to buy one, but some people have made due without it. a strap wrench around the outside of the basket may work, some have put a couple bolts into the bosses for the clutch springs and put a pry bar between them (I wouldnt do this, as the perches are not all that strong with loads in that direction).

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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 06:37 PM
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Made a post earlier and didn't hit the button.

I used a penny to block the gears, it bends the penny 90 but doesn't hurt the gears. Have also done it by stuffing a folded shop rag in there but it shreds up some lint onto the gears.

The balancer gear bolt is left-hand threads.

Can get a whole box of the puller bolts for $20 at Fastenal, the correct size is posted around here somewhere (metric). I already had one from Motion Pro, Honda uses the same puller.

Maybe it's the rear axle that works for a puller? I know the rear axle nut will pull the spark plug wells.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-27-2020, 10:05 AM
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for the life of me, I cant remember which bolt fits the rotor, and I even did that job.. using the bolt made rotor removal extremely easy, and reinstalling is just plain stupid simple.

note: the bolt for holding it on is smaller than the bolt to remove. the inside of the rotor is threaded as well as the inside of the crankshaft. the rotor threading is for removal, the crankshaft for installing/retaining.

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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-27-2020, 10:55 AM
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Puller bolt size is 18mm with 1.5mm threads - 18mm x 1.5mm

Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
for the life of me, I cant remember which bolt fits the rotor, and I even did that job.. using the bolt made rotor removal extremely easy, and reinstalling is just plain stupid simple.

note: the bolt for holding it on is smaller than the bolt to remove. the inside of the rotor is threaded as well as the inside of the crankshaft. the rotor threading is for removal, the crankshaft for installing/retaining.
Found your post from 2017.

https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engin...ok-here-2.html

Quote:
alternative to the flywheel puller tool (the bolt), is a bolt for the upper chain tensioner.. just above the acct (or mcct if converted), on outside of the head. I (and others) have used it with success. its the right size thread,, just a hair short. you can use a small socket inside it (its hollow) to give it that little extra length (it dont need much). pops right off using it.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-27-2020, 01:38 PM
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great job on finding that.. I remember now!

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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-27-2020, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
great job on finding that.. I remember now!
Thanks, it was mostly luck, it was about the 2nd result when I searched "puller size".

Would be best to get a few bolt threads in before it contacts the spacer (socket), use the shortest socket possible.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-30-2020, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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I added up the costs of all the gaskets, o-rings, and 1 camshaft and 2 rockers.
I'm looking at $465.08 from Partzilla or $620.24 from Kawasakipartshouse.com! GULP!

The camshaft is $157.33 from Kawasakipartshouse.com and 117.06 from Revzilla.com.
The rocker is $68.76 or $49.54 each.
Any cheaper reputable sources than these sites?
I don't really want to trust Ebay with parts like this.

My coworker says all the rockers look like they have significant wear, and suspects that it ran dry at some point in its life.
Should I be running a zinc additive?
I run this oil. But I've only used this for 21k to 27k miles (changed every 3k miles). I don't know what the previous owner used.

It's hard to spend this sort of cash on an old bike....
I still gotta get approval from my wife.
It's already apart because I wasn't going to go another season risking the coolant mixing with the oil.


'89 VN750 Bought stock 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800. Wrecked once. 27454.5+ miles

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, straight pipes out of GB. 110/90 Front Tire. Pick-up coil mod. Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA r/r. USB Outlet + Voltmeter. Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages. Ear Shave (wo/ coasters) 40/140 NO shims 45MPG. MCCT conversion.

Planned modifications:
Custom LED turn signals. Windshield. Highway Pegs. (Possible) ignition adv. Tuxedo Mod. Ignition coil mod.
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-30-2020, 06:50 PM
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Ebay is the first place I look. You can find good used parts there, even new ones. Can't remember ever buying anything from the parts websites at all. I've saved plenty of cash shopping ebay.

Otherwise, close your eyes, invert wallet, and shake well. All the parts sites have astronomical prices, and always high shipping.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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