Well, as far as magic tricks go--don't know about that, but maybe a couple of ideas for you. Likely if you're seeing problems with clogged jets you're going to need to work on the idle circuit, too. Don't know how familiar you are with carbs, but I'm guessing at 16 you might need a little advice? These carbs have idle screws that are set intentionally lean at the factory so that they have lower emissions. They'll run better if you turn them 1/4 turn out our so. Problem being that they're also hidden behind block-off plates that you may have to remove unless a previous owner has already done that for you. I don't have any pictures handy or I would share. . . .
Will also want to remove the idle screws and get some carb cleaner through those passages. Be careful though. idle screws are made of brass and quite fragile. You want to turn them all the way in counting how many turns they're set at and then note that value so you can use that same setting (or 1/4 turn out from there) when you replace them. Also must be cautious not to overtighten them! Be careful when you remove them as there will be a tiny o-ring in there, and a tiny spring that is there to keep that screw from moving on its own.
Also, I had my carbs off this winter, and I have to say they are a worthy challenge to install! One thing I did was to remove the idle adjustment screw while I was installing the carbs, then added the idle adjustment after the carbs were in place. After finishing up, I was pretty sure that the carbs had never been installed properly before I removed them. Getting the carb boots tightened up was probably more than someone that earns their living by the hour wanted to screw around with.
Be careful, take your time--you can do it!