Another description of the spline lube process: finishing up my spline lube '99 with 8k mi. After looking at all info ya'll put out over the last 6 mo, I tackled this job tonight. Put the bike on the centerstand, removed the axle nut with my 12" Crescent wrench getting it between the swingarm and the stock pipe. Removed both shocks and swingarm came down, but lower right shock mount/bolt hit the pipe. Loosened all three 10mm bracket bolts where the goat and pipe mount on the right. Flexed outward enough to let the swingarm fall with the axle just below the pipes. Tapped out the axle with a hammer.
Removed right side spacer and removed brake/hub to frame arm bolt and hardware attaching brake rod to hub. Pulled wheel to right and with it loose, cocked it 30 degrees inside the swingarm. Loosened 4 bolts on rear spline housing and pulled whole unit out. Pulled wheel out from between swingarm. Was happy to see lots of grease (don't think it was moly though) on rear unit. Pulled off left side panel and popped off rear of rubber boot at it's top at front of swingarm/driveshaft. Held it open at the top with large screwdriver and shine flashlight inside. Not happy to see no grease or lube of any kind on front spline or U-joint; dry as a bone and a tiny bit of rust/corrosion on the front splines. Condition of the metal is fine. Stick a toothbrush into the cylinder of Honda Moly 60 grease and insert it into cavity and brush on grease to the front spline while turning the shaft with hand at the back. Get a reasonable amount of grease on the front spline. Then take my Honda Spray lithium grease and spray the front U-joint while turning the shaft at the back. Then button up the rubber boot at the front. In the back, take plastic teaspoon and load it up helping wise with grease and put down the hole where the spring was and the rear spline goes into the shaft. Do this again. Put the spring back into the hole. Put the wheel between the swingarm at 30 degrees and put the rear unit back on its 4 bolts. Push on it and tighten the bolts in a criss cross fashion till snug. Tighten with torque wrench to 17.5 ft-lbs. Do a reverse of other steps above - axle tightens to 80 ft-lbs. Went pretty well for my. rgds Mike '99 in Nawlins'
All finished. Before putting on the shocks and the axle was at lowest point, I was able to fit my 27mm socket on the nut and torque it to 80 ft-lbs. Then I put the shocks back on, right side first, and torqued their acorn nuts to 22 ft-lbs. Last was to tighten the 10mm right side pipe/passenger foot peg bracket 3 nuts and then install the left side cover. Done until 18k mi.
Spline Lube Notes 2001 with 37,000 miles.
Previous spline lube was 28,000 Did the spline lube again yesterday and learned a couple of new things. Take a good look at the o-ring on the final drive spline. Mine was torn and the lube was leaking out past it. There was black moly all over the inside of the swing arm tube and the final drive spline housing. There was still some grease in the spline coupling, but not much. Luckily I had ordered an extra one the last time and had one on hand. Getting the rear wheel out past the fender was made easier by tying down the front forks with a ratchet type tie down and compressing the forks a couple of inches which raises the rear end. Assumes bike is on center stand. Use your torque wrench on the final drive nuts BEFORE you put the rear wheel back on. Make sure that you have more than one pair of the mechanics rubber gloves before you start. Also have more than one roll of paper towels on hand.