I have the Clymer manual, 85 95 version. It says to "apply a light coat of grease (lithium based NLGI No. 2 grease with Molybdenum disulfide) to the final driven flange spline etc" I think I saw that grease @ Autozone, but it doesn't have anywhere near 60% Moly. More like 3% if I remember correctly.
Is the Clymer grease good enough for use on the final drive or is a grease with >= 60% moly a lot better for it? What would be the diff?
With all the talk lately on grease and what to use on our drive splines I would like to suggest LocTite Moly paste, 65% molybdenum disulphide pn 51048. It can be found at any good bearing supply house or they can order. Last I paid was about $17.00 for a 8oz can with a brush top (wholesale).
Here is a good site about Motorcycle Grease.
Final drive grease Maverick
: I had the SAME experience at the Honda dealership. He walked out with the tub in hand and I said 'no thanks'. I order the Moly 60. Here are all the options I can think of, and a write-up I did below that: Recommended High Moly (>60%) Content Greases: Note: the Kawasaki manual calls for 17ml, which is about 0.57oz, or at least 5 applications per 3oz! In other words, this is cheap compared to the protection!
1. "Honda Moly 60" (60% moly di). Conveniently available from any Honda dealership p/n 08734-0001 ($9 / 3oz tube). Also available for slightly less from http://www.casporttouring.com
2. "TS-70 Moly Paste" also called "GuardDog GD-570 Moly Paste" (70% moly di). http://www.guarddogmoly.com
($14 / 4oz).
3. "LocTite Moly Paste" (65% molybdenum di). Found at any good bearing supply house or they can order p/n-51048 also available from http://www.use-enco.com
p/n 505-1197 ($20 / 8oz tube )
Note: Now, if money is no object Dupont makes a product called DuPont XHT-BDX extra high temperature extra bonding Krytox $230 for an 8oz tube pn-10195K24. This is what NASCAR uses and they claim it can reduce the temperature of spline joints on driveshafts by 150° . Also, this stuff lasts forever. It is, unfortunately, quite expensive. Out of my league!
Q: I am new to this group and reside in NJ. I have a 2002 (purchased in 2003) and have 1300 miles on it. I am experiencing grease leaks around the drive shaft beside the rear wheel. I am finding myself cleaning the rear rim every 70 miles. Is there a document on a fix that someone can point me to? Any information on the problem would be appreciated.
Good news .. your shaft at least has been greased Bad or not so bad news.. it was either greased with the wrong stuff or.. over-greased and what you are seeing is overfill that will eventually fade away or.. the o-ring needs replacing.
If it's black, greasy stuff oozing from between the wheel hub and the final drive housing, don't worry about it. My '02 did the same thing and when I pulled the rear wheel and housing to grease the rear drive spline I found about a 1/2 pound of extra grease inside the hub. When it gets warm it slowly oozes out due to centrifugal force. I cleaned it all out, regreased it with a moderate coat of moly lube and it's been clean ever since. MokiMan
I had the same problem with my '03. When I took the rear wheel off it was packed with about a gallon of grease, well a lot anyway. I cleaned it all up and lubed it with 70% Moly and have not had a problem since. BTW - I also changed the rear gear oil just for giggles. Phil 'Stargazer'
re. bolt size + Removing rear axle nut
Maybe I can help, just done mine. First off, the wheel is at max lowness on the center stand, in fact if your on level ground, you can turn the wheel. the pipes are easily removed, you simply remove the back support bolt, then loosen the heat shield clamp on the rear muffler, then loosen the muffler clamp on the goat belly, or whatever pipe you have there, then simply work it out, the gasket is re-useable, so long as you are careful with it. then you can put your sockets on the bolt, anyway, even if you wrench it loose, you cant get the axle out anyway for the right pipe, so you must remove it. if your doing a spline lube, you can do the back fine from there, the front is a bit trickier, you must pry up the boot on the back side and spoon the grease on the splines, as you cant pull the drive shaft out through the back all the way, just enough to dislodge it and spoon in some grease. to do the spline, unless you are unbolting the entire swing arm, If I was going that far it is easier to pull the front bevil gear case and pull it out from the front, easily greasin both ends, but this requires a complete exhaust pull and possibly new crush gaskets? beavis
Can't you remove or loosen the nut first..then remove the shocks to lower the wheel far enough to get the axle out? KM