Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums - View Single Post - Engine Oil Type and Oil Change Intervals
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-19-2006, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
Vulcan Verses
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
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Quote:
Greg and all...after years of web research I've come to the
following conclusions.. 1. Use only 40 or 50 weight oils (10w,
15w etc), as they are not 'Energy Conserving' and will not
affect your wet clutch. 2. Synthetic oils will offer
marginally better protection and longer change intervals than
a top quality petro based, but unless you are running an air
cooled bike, run in extreme conditions, or just like to beat
on it, you will get more than adequate protection from your
Castrol GTX as long as it is changed regularly and often.
Synth oils probably do not offer much of an advantage to the
great majority of cruiser/touring riders. Make your own
cost/benefit judgement on this. 3. Moto specific oils vs
automotive oils come down to marketing and what each
individual is comfortable with. AFAIC, the additive packages
in moto specific oils and their 'performance' are fine, but
considering the price, the quality/performance of the oil I
use (Shell Rotella) vs the Moto oils, the way I ride
(aggressive but not a beater), the frequency of my oil/filter
changes, and the bike I own, I'm comfy spending $1.89/qt vs $5
or $7. Remember, this is only MHO, and is not meant to
represent the opinions of this group, VROC, the API, NASCAR,
the NHTSA, the AMA or MRF, or yo momma. Nexxttt.....

The gist of the article more or less said that using the
rccomended oil in your machine does provide the proper
protection. But if you buy regular petrolium oil @ $2.00 a
quart and change it every 3k y0u are still spending as much in
the long run as someone buying a synthetic for $4.00 a quart
and changing it every 6k miles.If you change your oil more
often (than waiting 3.000) or wait longer with the synthetic ,
these figures obviously change, If cost is not a big
concern...they give the nod to synthetic oils...simply because
they provide better protection as a whole...But do state that
"regular oil" is in most cases just fine and you don't need to
spend the money for some specialty oil..provided you do change
your oil at reccomemded intervals. Almost all premature
failures of engines can be traced to failure of the driver in
maitaining proper oil levels or not changing oil at
reccomended intervals.
Knifemaker

I did not, but it is fact at this point, IMO. Automotive 10W40
or heavier is fine and just as good as MC oil if not better.
Like most riders know, just change it often. I change my oil
at least every 2K. It's so easy and a good 10W40
(e.g.FormulaShell) can be found on sale for .80/qt, so why the
hell not? ﷓Bruce
That Super Tech sem-syn in 10W40 will be fine, as will almost any name brand 10W40 or 15W40. What many of us prefer is probably the best bang for the buck oil out there: Shell Rotella T in 15W40, $1.76 at Wal-Mart. It's a quality group 2 basestock oil with many additives that are excellent for our scoot. I use it and like others here now have a smoother shifting trans which is just icing on the cake. I've never seen Mobil 1 in 15W40 in any store around Metro Detroit. If ya do go with Mobil 1 then use the 15W50, many bikers swear by it and don't want to spend the extra $2.50/qt on Mobil 1's MXT 10W40 MC oil.

Try the Shell Rotella T or QuakerState semi-syn 4x4 in 10W40 or 15W40 and let us know how your tranny feels.

It's over kill but the Mobil 1 "red cap" 15W50 is popular and the 10W40 bike formula is great but quite expensive. My favorite synthentic is Amsoil's 10W40 bike formula. Best bang for the buck is the current board favorite and one I really like and the same one that is developing an almost cult like status in the bikes and hotrods. Drum roll please.................................... Shell Rotella T 15W40 ($1.78 at Wal-Mart)! Try it and see if your tranny doesn't shift smoother. Change it at least every 3K and your bearings will thank you years from now.
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