This is my contribution to our group.
My brother and I own a automotive transmission shop in Newberg, Oregon. One of my venders can get after market clutch parts. I can buy these parts @ cost and in turn sell them cheaper to you.
These frictions are not Kevlar they are Alto Red racing frictions. I don't recommend Kevlar, Kevlar is a very harsh material and it will not slip even when you want it to and it will distroy your steel plates, you want a friction that has greater holding power but will allow minor slippage when you want it. The Red frictions disapate heat alot better then Kevlar as well. You know the walrus noise that alot of people have taking off first thing when the engine is cold? well thats because the friction plates are not slipping and allowing a smooth engagement. There are many people who complain of a no slipping engagement after installing Kevlar lined frictions. These frictions will me and exceed all your needs. PERIOD!!
Alto Red frictions they are classed as high performance, but they work great under regular use.
The frictions come in two different thickness they are listed below, you'll need to measure your old ones to find out which ones you'll need.
1986 - 2003
Alto Red Racing Frictions
.098 thick/per friction @ 8 frictions per kit
1986 - 2003
Alto Red Racing Frictions
.118 thick/per friction @ 8 frictions per kit
My vender is finding out whether 2004-2005 are the same size.
Ronny Van Zant
Sure Shift Technologies
RE: the above and clutch disks: Alto Red Racing frictions are the top choice in car transmissions for racing. But the use of hardend steel plates is also reccomended. The "disadvantages" of Kevlar that he mentions are the exact reasons I like it. Slippage is important when you are trying to launch a 3 thousand pound machine down a dragstrip, but in everyday use on a 65 horsepower 500 lb bike it may not be. From my standpoint, a clutch that resists slipping and tends to grab hard is preferable. I can shift from 3rd to 4th in 0.12 seconds, and expect at 0.13 seconds the power to be delivered to the wheel without any "slipping"...and not incounter any quirks while I pour on the gas. Wet clutches use engine oil to lubricate , which has diffrent lubrication propertied than transmission oil. I am not saying the Alto clutches would not work in our bikes..but the demands on the clutch are not as intense as they are in a racing car. Kevlar may cause more wear on the steel plates, but given the lifespan of them and the amount of stress they have to endure in a 65 horsepower machine, I doubt that is much of an issue , unless you are significantly mean to your clutch. I do not sell either clutch material and would like to hear more about the actual constuction of the Alto plates, but so far...I have been extremely pleased with the Kevlar units I installed. KM
The Barnett spring kit number for the VN750 is MT-55-5 Hope that helps.
After pressing the service "mangler" at my local stealership to call Kawasaki for authorization to repair my clutch, they told him to do what he said what Kawasaki wouldn't authorize him to do. Kawasaki told him to drill holes in the bottom of the splines of the clutch inner hub, per the info that I printed from the "FILES" of this forum. While they had the clutch apart, I furnished for them to install, Barnett clutch springs($13.00) and Alto Red Line frictions($60.00 with shipping) that I got from one of our own member, Ronny Van Zant. The new clutch is much smoother, engages sooner than the stock clutch and is quieter than a church mouse. The $73.00 that I spent is worth it to me not hear/feel that grabbing walrus. Warranty labor to Kawasaki $131.10. Thanks to all who provided info to help me correct this concern.