Used VN750 Bike Check
The electrical problems are not just for the older bikes. Potentially they can apply to any year, but there are preventive measures that can improve your odds (btw, it is not just our bikes either, other brands have the same problems) Battery check.. if the stock battery is still in the bike, check for any acid spills or leaks in the surrounding areas. This seems to be the main problem in overtaxing the Stator R/R. If you do get the bike and it does not have a maintenance free battery in it.. replace it ASAP. $60-70 battery cost up front will give you many many more trouble-free miles.
With the test ride.. Check how easily it starts cold, listen for any cam chain noise, or clutch chatter (shouldn't be present with the year and miles on the bike) Shift through the gears and get her warmed up, listen for any pops or backfires on decel. Pull over, shut it down, then try a warm start. (if it doesn't start right away wait a few minutes, maybe loosen the gas cap and try again) The starting cold and warm help test battery strength, popping or backfiring is no biggie but could indicate an exhaust leak or adjustment needed on the air mix screws. Smoother shifting can be obtained through a change in the oil used. Find out what maintenance has been done, what oil was used, what octane gas (87 octane is just fine for our bikes) Ummmmm.. can't think of anything else at the moment, but that should get you a good start on the check-out. Dianna Hughey
Check the charging system voltage at 4000-5000rpm. It should be 14 > volts or more. Remove the right side cover, and find 2 wires with > nothing connected to them, the Black/Yellow is ground (frame), the > White/Blue is battery + voltage. Check the volt meter on a running car > battery first, looking for the same approximate reading on both. If > voltage is only 12.x it could be very costly to have repaired. Could > be $130 and 20 minutes or $$$ and weeks out of service.
Yes, good point. Comparing your car running with your hand held voltmeter, and then checking your bike at the battery terminals running WILL give you quite a good idea of what's happening with your electrical system. Very good baseline. Will also help you calibrate a voltmeter you are looking to install on the bike. Installed voltmeters on the bike HELP you monitor the electrics, but with resistance in the wires, connectings, relay or not used, etc. ; you only get a RELATIVE indication of what's up. For instance, my bar mounted cheapish digital voltmeter wired up through a relay with crimp on connections using 18 gauge wire reads .3-.5 volts low than actual. I don't get upset when it reads 13.2 volts after a lot of in town running around. I know what MY bike should read under WHAT conditions and can monitor it that way. An hour after pure freeway riding at 4500 rpm, sure, it reads 14 volts and the battery is fully charged. But at a stoplight, in hot weather for awhile fan running, holding in the brake, with the Knifemaker lightbar turned on, the voltmeter will read 11.5 volts till I'm on my way again.
Be nice to know it's maintenance history and/or to talk to it's previous owner. Has the bike ever gone down ? What break-in procedure did the bike get ? How often has the oil been changed ? What kind of oil ? What's the oil look like now ? Has the rear unit had it's oil changed ? What kind of oil ? Did the rear spline did it's grease job at 6000 ? What about the present battery ? Will they replace it with a Maintenance Free one at sale ? What condition are the tires in now ? Will they throw in any desireable accessories for free or cost ? windshield, high passenger backrest, luggage rack, saddlebag mounts are the most common Kaw items purchased