Screws and studs - stuck ones - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 01-19-2006, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Screws and studs - stuck ones

Q: I'm in the middle of installing my new Kaw saddle bag supports (with the turn signal and helmet lock relocation) and one screw holding a turn signal in the rear rail refuses to come loose. I've spritzed both sides with WD-40, applied a little impact with screwdriver and hammer, and put to much pressure with the phillips screwdriver and munned up the screwhead. Now Im just letting it soak up a little WD- 40 and hoping it will come loose in the morning. Tough to apply heat, due to the rubber arm. Looking for pearls of mechanical wisdom, so I can brak this loose and ride.
A: Not surprising... I've had to drill those buggers out on more then once... They are standard at the Kaw shop and if you want to go with something better, Ace Hardware carries something very close in stainless... Those OEM Kaw screws are very soft... The secret is to use a phillips screw driver that fits exact with no slop. Unfortunately, you probably have destroyed the head on your original screws... Just drill the head enough to pop the head off and replace... ===== Evan Breyn ~v~ The Bulldog

if the WD-40 doesn't do it and you decide to apply heat, use a soldering gun. If you have a heavy duty soldering gun you can put the tip right in the screwhead and it shouldn't affect the rubber on the stalk. Ed
While a soldering iron may work on small screws, you may need the additional power of a soldering gun for something this big.

Try something called kroil oil next time. I have yet to meet a screw or nut/bolt that was too stuck for that stuff, WD-40 suxx.
Instead of WD-40, use PB Blaster because WD-40 does not very well as penetrating oil and PB Blaster is one of the best.
Haven't used it yet, as I just returned from Sears with my new three piece "screw-out damaged screw removers", craftsman # 952154. Not like the old screw/bolt extractors, it's a little reverse bit that digs into the screw head (3 bits included). $20 seemed a bit steep, but if it works? I'm waiting for the cordless battery to charge, then we will tackle it.

Need help with broken exhaust pipe mounting bolt.

If there is enough left to get a hold of it with vice grips, soak it good with penetrating oil, then try that. If that fails, head for a good tool store and get a set of bolt extractors if you don't have one. You'll prob have to drill a hole in what is left of the bolt to get the extractor started. Or you can try to drill out the bolt, but using a drill smaller than the bolt. Be careful if you do this that you don't hit the sides of the existing bolt hole and mess up the threads... if you do, then you have another job on your hands once you get the bolt out. Sempai

Welcome to the "Broken Exhaust Stud Club", Mike. I did the exact same thing, and it took several days of soaking with PB Blaster and a good vice grips to get it out. You might even have to (carefully) heat it with a torch. Check my folder ("Pick") for a picture of the broken and new exhaust studs. I got my new one from Ace Hardware. If you want, you can replace the stud/nut combo with a regular stainless bolt and washer - I know grambo and others have done this with no problems. Regardless of how you do it, be sure to use some anti-seize on the threads when you put it back in there. Good luck, and keep us posted. Jim "Pick" Foster
The final solution resulted from a trip to the closet to drag out the dremel, and then sears for the "cut-off blade" attachment for it, and a BIG screwdriver. cut a new slot in the screw head for the BIG regular screwdriver,and apply muscle. a minute of cutting the slot, and a minute of muscle. definitely needed the BIG screw driver for lots of leverage. worked like a charm. the screw remover i bought the day before at sears was almost worthless. it might have worked fine for wood screws, sheet metal screws, etc. but "frozen" in, lengthy, metal to metal wasn't it's forte. a $20 lesson. thanks again to all, Rick (Rico Suave) Collins
There is a much easier way to remove studs from cast iron manifolds for those out there planning to do this. As long as the exhaust manifold is not attached to the aluminum head, you can heat the manifold with propane or mapp gas. Obviously you will have to have the manifold clamped in vise. Applying heat to the iron allows it to reach a hotter temperature than normal operating temperature. This allows the corrosion between the stud and the manifold to separate. Once you get the manifold nice and hot you can unscrew the stud with either vise grips, or back to back nuts and a socket wrench. Repeated attempts may be necessary. I have removed dozens of studs from cast iron manifolds with success. Wear good work gloves. Please contact me if anyone needs more detail. I hate to see anyone else torture themselves like poor Doug did.

For starters, you just want to heat the area closest to the stud, not putting the flame on the stud, but on the side of the manifold itself. If you want, start with propane. It burns at at lower temp than mapp gas. Apply the heat to the manifold, I would say just before it would start to glow, and try the exhaust stud. It may take a couple of temperature cycles to get it all the way out. Since the manifold for a bike is small, it should not take long for the temperature to increase. If I get a real stubborn stud, I typically heat it until I get it to break free, let it cool a bit, let some penitrating oil soak in, and try to rotate the stud back and forth a little to get a feel. I repeat the process if it feels like it doesn't want to keep turning. Remember to do this in a well ventilated area, especially after applying the penetrating oil and reheating because it's going to burn off the oil. It takes patience, but it beats drilling pounding and tapping(if you have anything left to tap). Freak
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 01-19-2006, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Loc-tite Question

I work for Applied Industrial Technologies, an industrial MRO distributor, so I know a little about Loctite. The threadlocker comes in varying strengths. Here is some info directly out of my Loctite book:

Product code 222- Low strength/Small screw, ideal for fastener diameters of 1/4" and smaller. Parts can be separated with hand tools. *

Product code 242(blue)- Medium strength, A general purchase, removable threadlocker for fasteners between 1/4" and 3/4" diameters. Parts can be separated using hand tools.

Product code 262(red)- Medium to High strength, A permanent locking threadlocker for fasteners up to 3/4" diameter. The 262(red) can be broken loose with heat, usually with a torch. This can be difficult depending on where the bolt/nut is, certainly on a motorcycle. My advise to anyone using threadlockers is to make sure what you are using and exactly what you want done. Hope this helps someone.
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