You do not need to rejet for any replacement pipes. This is a misconception of unknown origin...lol In theory...de-goatiing would decrease power...I do not have first hand knowledge of this...but a few folks have reported a little less pep at low speeds.
BTW and FWIW, there are at least three of us who have gone the degoat route and then later switched to aftermarket pipes anyway. (Raz, grambo, me.) > > Pick
me too. Knowing what I know now, I'd skip the degoat and go right to the V&H..
Man It sure gets louder when you degoat. I'm going to have to do coasters or marbles or something too. The neighbors may not be happy about this since my favorite time to ride is 5:30 AM Saturdays and Sundays.
Put on some H-D dyna mufflers and the neighbors will love you for it. You will too!
First you need to catch a goat and flip him over on his back. Then.... :- ) Seriously, the goat's belly or pre-muffler is located between the two exhaust pipes under the area of the battery in the vicinity of the centerstand. Exhaust gases are routed from the header pipes into this centrally located pre-muffler chamber and then out to the muflers/tailpipes. Unfortunately, it may be somewhat restrictive to the gas flow, and, more importantly, it becomes quite hot and concentrates heat in a position that can be detrimental to the battery and regulator/rectifer (R/R). Indirectly it can also cause premature failure of the stator. Removal of the goat's-belly removes the heat source. Another solution may be to relocate the R/R. Some do both the goat's-belly removal and the relocation of the R/R..
It is the catalytic converter (pre-muffler) that connects the two exhaust pipes under the the frame just in front of the rear tire.
The goat's belly is that ugly chamber thing right in the middle on the bottom of the bike that connects the two sides of the exhaust together. It looks like a goat's belly. Just above the GB, and under the battery case, is the R/R. Because of its location, we believe that the heat from the GB combined with the lack of air flow (since it is pretty much "enclosed") causes the R/R to get too warm, which can cause it to fail, which can cause your stator to blow, which is a very expensive fix. Therefore, the second thing we recommend you do (after getting the sealed battery), is to lose the GB and/or relocate the R/R out in the open air. Scootworks has a kit for bypassing the GB, or you can get aftermarket pipes from Vance & Hines or Cobra or Jardine which also eliminate the GB.
Check under Files >FAQS > What is the Goats Belly you folks talk about ?
It has been described variously as a catalytic converter, premuffler chamber, etc. etc.
Goat Belly??? -It is a big black heavy box looking thing under your bike where the center stand is. It connects the left and right exhausts under the bike. You can't miss it if it is there. Flemdog(It is useless)
I'll have to take exception here...it is not useless...but poorly placed. It does an excellent job for what it was designed for..to quell exhaust pulses from each pipe..which makes the bike less loud...Also it produces sequental back pressure..which may add to the performance of the bike. However...it does produce heat under the R/R and battery..it adds weight to the bike..and it's just plain ugly compared to most aftermarket exhaust systems. Given that..it's really a matter of personal prefrence as to leaving it there ( if you relocate the R/R ) Knifemaker
When you remove the goat belly you can expect a decrease in some performance. That's because the belly (Kawasaki rightly calls it the 'power chamber') provides a cross-over for a flatter/broader torque curve, scavenging advantages for more HP, and proper back pressure... basically it's a tuned exhaust. However, I removed it since I wanted a system with the following attributes (in rank order): 1. Reversible (bolt-on) 2. Better sound (louder with a low, aggressive throater note) 3. Stock appearance 4. True independent dual exhaust system 5. Reduce weight 6. No need to rejet the carbs Starman
Chuck...what I noticed immediately (when goat’s belly was removed) beside the increased loudness was a smoother acceleration, but slightly less pull @ lower revs, due to the reduced backpressure I guess. The vibes my bike had at around 3800-4200rpm vanished, and when I opened it up to 5k and yonder, the incredible smoothness and lack of vibration made me feel as if flying...gave me a BF grin! I went to V&H Cruzers, and the vibes came back, albeit very slightly, but I got my low end torque back, ( I think!
). If I had to do it over, I'd go directly to the Cruzers. They look like a million and sound at least as good... Whatever, make sure you turn those mixture screws out abt 2 1/2 turns (at least) from closed to reduce popping and compensate for easier air flow.. jm
Yup... I've ridden with Howard and my degoat can't touch his cruzers!
I normally shift by sound as opposed to looking at the tach. After degoating, it took me a couple of miles to realize that I was shifting a lot sooner because of the sound difference. Once I started getting used to the new sound of the shift points it didn't seem any different power wise than before. I think some people get fooled by the sound and shift sooner thereby feeling less power. I know I did. Ed
"Feeling power" is diffrent than hearing it. It just sounds to me that you got used to the new sound and changed your shifting patterns. The de-goat thing would have taken power off the low end of the band...so If you keep the bikes rpms up..you won't see a diffrence there. The only way to fairly meassure it is if you timed yourself (still goated) from 0 to 60 ..and compared it to the same test without the 'goat.( shifting at the exact rpm points) And of course this would be a very small diffrence. Those that have ridden the bike for some time may be able to precieve a diffrence after they degoat...be cause they can "feel" the diffrence. I know that when I added the larger windcreen...I can feel the bike is a tad slower accellerating. Shifting by sound is OK...but I still look at the tach.....
I had degoated stock and noticed some loss of power/torque, however when I replaced the mufflers with Dyna's (Ebay, 19.95 plu sshipping...beat grambo by a nickel!), no further problems
Word of advice. The stock clamps are probably the last thing you'd want to recycle. Get some new D-clamps. Don't get the heavy duty ones as the won't fit under the heat shield. I just finished sealing up my exhaust leaks that were caused in part by trying to use those stock clamps.
A lot of us have removed the goat belly. Has anyone made a centerstand stop bracket so the centerstand won't hit the left exhaust? I have put a leather patch on the centerstand for a cushion but it doesn't stop it from hitting the exhaust. I plan on making my own but I want to see what others have done first. Thanks!
When I did my De-Goat I used a piece of automotive Heater hose and two black cable ties (tie straps). Cut the Heater hose to about 1 inch in length. Cut down the one side. Slide it over the center stand and check where it hits the exaust. Tie strap it on each end. It is black and blends in with the center stand and works just fine. Roy "Viking" Gable Jr.
V&H Cruzers come with a metal bracket that bolts on where the goat belly used to attach. It stops the centerstand from hitting the frame or exhaust.
I test rode my bike today and I really like the degoated stock pipes. The sound is deeper then the dynas and not as loud as the punched out dynas. At cruising speed it has a nice low hum. Not bad for less then $20. Maverick