Stator Redo - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
 
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post #1 of 1 (permalink) Old 01-19-2006, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
Vulcan Verses
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
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Stator Redo

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Well, truthfully I pulled the stator off twice, only replaced it once. I started the project Saturday morning about 9:30am and finished it 15 hours later at 12:30am. Now accounting for the 3 ambulance calls, 2 meals and a few calls of nature.... I had 11 hours of labor in when I fired up the bike. OH YEAH, BABY!!! she fired right up, YEE HAW!!! Oh, CRAP!!! An oil leak. Can anyone guess what was leaking?? Anyway I get ahead of my self. Disassembly wasn't too difficult, thanks to everyones help and advice. With one exception.

NO ONE made it clear that the lower front frame member on the right side comes off for engine removal. Yeah, yeah, yeah, you will point out that is was in J.R.'s documents. Right, buried in a paragraph and not defined clearly. This should have been BOLDED, HIGHLIGHTED, ITALICIZED AND UNDERLINED! Man what an idiot if felt like when my 17y/o son said, "Dad, I does the frame come apart here?" "Well no Miles, there's not a place on this side that comes loose. So how would the frame come apart?" "Hey dad, there is another set of bolts back here. This whole section comes off!" Thanks J.R. it really did help.

After many hours of removing things and praying that I would remember where each item went, we finally got the engine out. Then off came the cover and I wished that I could afford Jim Larson's Stator conversion, 'cuz this was a major PITA. So, we pullout the old stator, looks fine. And install the rebuilt one from Rick's Motorsport Electrics, Inc. I believe he is out there on the left coast somewhere. Clean everything off, install new gaskets, o-ring, blah, blah. Hey did you know that the drive shaft has to come off the motor. After trying to remove it for the back side of the bevel gear housing with the four bolts, I finally removed the whole housing, and Tah-Dah, off it slid.

Reassembled the whole thing, last thing to put on before the gas tank and battery was the engine guard. Yep, you guess it. The exhaust has to come back off and then put on engine guard, then reinstall the exhaust. My day was like this. Did most things 2 or 3 times.

Add oil, antifreeze and another prayer. Varoooom, she started, only to have a puddle of oil forming on the floor. @#$% what the [email protected]#% is going #&$* on now. There was oil flowing, not leaking out of the hole where the stator wires exit the housing. How in the H%LL could I mess this up? I hadn't even smelled a beer let alone had too many! Time for bed, its after midnight. A clear head tomorrow will prevail.

I decide to stay at the station and tear the engine back down. But after 15 hours my knees are sore from the concrete and my legs are tired from kneeling, standing, kneeling, standing, over and over. My back feels like it is on fire, my neck is stiff, but today is a new day and I am determined to ride it home. Did I mention that I rode it to the station? So I have to ride it home. 8am I start again. 2:30pm she roars back to life. My leak was cased by the two sets of wires exiting the housing. There is a rubber grommet on each set. They are formed to fit together, if you pay close attention you will notice this. But I didn't and it cost me a lot of time, extra gallon of oil and another half gallon of Dex-Cool antifreeze. So, if you need to replace your stator and need some advice, don't ask me. I going to get drunk, pass out and dream of pretty blondes on blue Vulcans. Again, thanks to everyone that offered help, to those that had posted things in the past and thanks to the Owasso Fire Department for not allowing me to drink adult beverages while duty. Hoot - Stator Vanquisher
Quote:
Q: Don't need to do it but would like to know for sure - does the engine have to come out for stator replacement?
A: Boy, I can't tell you how many times I asked this question of people here and in the real world off line. The only answer I got was "Yes". So let me elaborate on "Yes" a little. The frame on the bike covers several bolts required for removal of the housing containing the stator. Then add to this next to no room up or down to move the engine within the frame, the gear shifter shaft. It sticks out to far to the left and gets in the way of the frame. Also sticks out too far and wouldn't allow the housing to slide off while the engine is still in the frame. So the only alternative is side to side movement and you have to remove the lower right subframe to have any lateral movement. Once you remove this frame member, the engine is essentially out anyway. The motor mounts have been removed for the lateral movement and the wires are disconnected, blah, blah blah. So yeah, the engine has to be removed. Save up your cash. Even with the rebuilt stator at $145, I spent about $225 on the whole job. But that is still cheaper that the $330 new part and 10 hours of shop labor fees. Save up your money and get Larson's stator conversion. It will pay for itself over the years. This was the 3rd stator in my bike in 60,000 miles.

Last edited by Vulcan Verses; 01-19-2006 at 10:01 PM.
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