Idiots guide to wiring accessories
There are 2 categories of accessories
1. Those that are connected to power (the battery) all the time (but may have their own ON/OFF switch or disconnectable connector).
2. Those that are connected to power only when the ignition switch is ON.
For category 1
, Kawasaki has provided 2 sets of wires, connected to a 10 Amp fuse in the junction box. One set is in the headlight assembly, and the other is behind the right side cover (toward the rear). The battery negative (-) wire is colored "BK/Y" (BlacK/Yellow stripe), and the battery positive (+) wire is colored "W/BL)" (White/BLue stripe).
Another type of category 1
is to make your own fused connections to the battery terminals.
For category 2
, some people connect to the running lights in the headlight assembly, or the tail light or license plate light wires under the seat. These wires are fused through the junction box, but if your added load exceeds the 10 Amp fuse rating, or if your added wires get pinched between the frame and something else, and "short" to the frame, the tail light fuse will blow, and you may be driving at night without rear lights ---- NOT SAFE!!
A better way to add accessories is to get an inline fuse holder (Radio Shack or automotive store) and an appropriate amperage rated fuse, and connect it to the "BR/W" (BRown/White stripe) wire at the Junction Box (fuse box) connector on the left side of the battery box. This connection should be "T" soldered and wrapped with electrical tape and the tape tie-wrapped, to prevent the tape from exposing the bare connection when the adhesive inevitably lets go. While you are making this connection, you may also want to connect a fused cigarette lighter socket (automotive store) to the same place, and mount it somewhere securley, so you can plug-in other accessories that way too.
Some links for those who may be interested.... Here are a few links to some electical items that might interst a few. Since most a familiar with the limited power availablity on the 750, these may be a work around:
First is a volt-amp reduxtion circuit
This is a method of using stock driving lights, being able to have them lit in the daytime for safety, yet not knocking the bpoer draw into the red (under 12.8) zone. You can also increae the outputy if you need for regular brightness for the periods of time when you need every light you can get ( in the twisties looking for Bambi!).
For those of you wanting to add extra markers, but not wanting to add to the power draw, these LEDs
work really well:
Inexpensive way to use regular Halogen drivng lights with 35w instead of 55w bulbs. Will still have good bright lights, just not as much power draw.
Something I did on my Wing ( I know it's not a Vulcan but lives with a couple......) was installed a switch that cuts the low bean off for starting and daytime driving. I have a set of 18w roadlamps that I run during the daytime (kinda like the car daytime driving lights) keep me noticed and legal and lets the battery cycle well without working the alternator hard. I can hit the highbeam and the headlight is on without running it fulltime.
Just my little addition to the knowledge base. BTW, the folks there at Electical Connection are really good to work with. Roadtrash