Coffee Grinder Clutch Noise - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 01-15-2006, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Coffee Grinder Clutch Noise

Coffee grinder noise

If you follow the clutch cable you'll find that it leads to a lever on the left side of the motor. That lever works a cam that pushes the clutch rod to spread the clutch plates. The funny thing is that the clutch is on the right side of the engine which requires the rod to extend all the way through the motor, through the clutch basket shaft so that it can push the spring-loaded clutch plate out, separating the clutch disks. Its a pretty simple operation. J.R. Allas
Ooops, I forgot to mention to check here:
Ok.. Big Bikes come to the rescue.. Try a Goldwing Dealer. The clutch levers are inter-changeable.. Starr has tried Goldwing clutch levers on mine with no problem.. 8 mm main shaft part of bolt.. threaded part 5 mm. Ask for the one for a GL1500.

In installing new levers - just be careful of that clutch lever bolt.. That seems to be the one that has broken for at least two others.. It's a shaft, with a threaded end and does have a nut attached. Parts diagram at buy kawasaki should show you . And I'm sure it's covered in the online manual too.
I snapped that puppy right off trying to put the lever back on - didn't even know it was there. It's the safety switch that keeps it from starting if it's in gear

Mechmo was trying to install the Flanders levers today, and did exactly what you warned him not to - snapped the plastic pin on the backside of the clutch area. He saw it, thought he had cleared it, was wiggling the clutch, and heard it snap. Damn Mechmo! What is the pin for/what does it do, and how do I replace it?

Thats the clutch starter disengagee thing sounds like. Only cost abt $5

Next.. the "little plastic pin" is the clutch/starter safety switch. There should be two wires coming to it. The question is... does the circuit need to be open (wires not touching) or does the circuit need to be closed (wires touching) for the starter to work? One way to find out... try both. This can keep you riding while ordering the replacement switch. The switch IS a good idea... starting in gear, etc.

The switch prevents the bike from starting if it's in gear and the clutch is not pulled in. Now that you have broken off the little plastic pin, your bike WILL try to start, and it will lurch forward if you inadvertantly try to start it while it is in gear.

Well that Mechmo sure is an idiot! He did the same darn thing when he was at my house once. Luckily, the switch is held in place by a single screw and takes all of 3 minutes to replace.

Q: I am worried about a noise in the clutch of my bike: When it is cold, in the initial exit (in first speed) it makes a brief noise, as a snore of box of changes of old trucks; this noise does not occur, if the clutch lever will be untied slowly and in low rotation. What can be happening? this noise is normal?
A: Well to sum it up, yes it is totally normal, they call it "coffe grinder" due to the funny sound it makes sometimes when cold. You can replace your clutch pads with aftermarket, or there is a mod in the files to drill holes in clutch hub to let out the thick oil when cold, but it does no harm, and lots of us just take it easy on it until it warms up.

What kind of oil are you running in your ride? Initial start-up clatter could be what we call clutch chatter. Once the oil warms up the noise disappears. Just a though if the noise comes back on a cool morning.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 01-15-2006, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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From gYpSy's website:

Believe it or not, it's not unusual for clutch slippage noise on the 750 *whenever* the motor oil is cold, or you leave from a standstill with alot (too much) throttle--more noticeable during cold weather months.

It almost sounds like a grunting noise and only last a brief instant. But if you "recently changed your clutch cable", perhaps the cable tension is too tight, not allowing the clutch to release fully. (incomplete clutch engagement). The service manual calls for 2-3mm of clutch freeplay at the hand lever, but I find a more accurate way is to reach down and feel the cable tension right at the throwout lever (down by the oil level sight glass) by tugging up on it. Pull back the rubber boot slightly (so as to not tear it), and there should be just the slightest amount of flex in the cable there without touching the hand lever, enough to pull it like a guitar string. If the cable won't budge or feels tight, then it's not releasing the clutch all the way to properly engage. If it feels very loose then you should tighten it up a bit. Reason for cold clutch slippage on 750's is due to the design of the clutch hub, which doesn't allow thick, cold oil to be flung off the discs completely to avoid slippage. It doesn't do any harm at all to the clutch, but sounds "annoying" to the rider.

Coffee grinder noise/Oil observation According to gYpSy's site, the problem is cold oil in the clutch that has to be squeezed out, which is what causes the noise and grabbiness. She describes a procedure to drill holes in the clutch hub that is supposed to alleviate this.

If you are going to take it apart to drill holes, might as well go ahead and do new clutch plates instead. I would say that if you only have the problem when cold, it's inherent with this model. I choose to live with it for now, as it doesn't really effect the operation after a few miles of riding, and I know how to deal with it. After that my clutch operation is smooth and trouble free. If you continue to have clutch problems after bike is warmed up, then yes, a clutch rebuild is in order. Or if you just want a better clutch. Mine is working OK for me now. She also has added a procedure to fix the shift shaft lost circlip problem from the outside without having to remove the engine. Also read her comments about the stator cover plate mod. Her website is a gold mine of information. If you haven't visited it, it is well worth your time to do so.

Folks, Regarding clutch chatter, Check out the files: -> Clutch and drivetrain ->vn750 clutch chatter.pdf.

The Bike owner listed in there is Glenn Trippe, and I purchased his bike two years ago, and I still do NOT have clutch chatter and I use the Shell rotella -T non syn, The solution, the kevlar clutch disks that KM , Beavis and others mentioned. It's the clutch plates, not the oil folks. Different oils may mask the problem but the root cause is still there, the stock plates are poor. I talked to Glenn about this problem when I purchased the bike. Here is what he found when he took his clutch apart with his mechanic, and why he replaced it with the kevlar plates: The original disks were scalloped, - uneven wear. and that is what causes the chattering. Also when they tested the original clutch springs they found that they were not in tolerance with the specs. I believe he said that they were not the correct size. The replacement springs with the kevlar clutch kit were to spec and stronger springs. He did that replacement in 1999, the first year he had the bike, and it is now 6 years and 16,000 miles later and there is no chatter. By the way he was using mobile 1 synth in the bike. So the real fix to the problem is to replace the clutch plates. RB

I called my local dealer and complained about the cold clutch syndrome that alot if not most VN750 seem to suffer from. After some pushing and probing the service mgr admitted that Kawasaki did release a service bulletin to address this concern. While they have to remove the clutch pack to do service bulletin modification to the inner clutch hub and since the dealer is a Barnett clutch distributor I asked them to replace the clutch springs with Barnett's Heavy Duty springs and have Kawasaki ok the new springs under warranty. He said that he didn't forsee any problems with that. We'll see. I'll keep you posted.
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