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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Smile Trading imminent

Hi there,
Brand new to the forum, and currently a klr 650 owner. I was looking to find a more highway suited ride, and stumbled upon a slightly used 06 vn750 at a local dealership this weekend. It sure has all the old school style that I like in a (my first) cruiser. I am ready to take the plunge this week, but wanted to see if there was something you experts would recommend to check prior to purchase. It has less than 7k on it, so I'm thinking it can't be that much of a risk. Any advise is appreciated.
Thanks,
Gisle
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by gisle View Post
Hi there,
Brand new to the forum, and currently a klr 650 owner. I was looking to find a more highway suited ride, and stumbled upon a slightly used 06 vn750 at a local dealership this weekend. It sure has all the old school style that I like in a (my first) cruiser. I am ready to take the plunge this week, but wanted to see if there was something you experts would recommend to check prior to purchase. It has less than 7k on it, so I'm thinking it can't be that much of a risk. Any advise is appreciated.
Thanks,
Gisle
I'd ask the dealer to lube the rear drive shaft splines prior to you getting the vehicle. It's something often forgotten at the factory, and can lead to some unhappyness down the road.

Otherwise have them change all the fluids. You'll want to do some things to it after you get it, but nothing that I would expect a dealer to do for me.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-11-2012, 12:34 AM
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Here is a link to fergy`s spline lube thread:
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17274

You want the drive shaft coupling to final drive pinion splines lubed, as well as the final drive to rear wheel hub splines.
Check the brake shoes and drum for wear or damage. Clean and lube the brake actuating cam while the wheel is off too.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-11-2012, 07:37 AM
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I would have the dealer check the voltage at the battery while running at idle and at 4000 rpms to make sure the stator is good.

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 03:21 AM
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The following assumes that you already have (or will have) inspected the bike for other issues like signs the bike has been in a tip-over or a crash, and you are satisfied with what you found (or didn't find).

The "big" issue with this bike is that a lot of them apparently left the factory with the rear drive splines pretty much unlubed (as the others above have already mentioned).

This is NOT a design defect, but rather a quality control oversight on the assy line.

These splines, and those in the rear wheel hub, should be lubed with a high-moly grease (such as Honda's "moly 60"...or one of its competitors). Regular axle grease really won't cut it here.

Follow and study the fergy link given above by "OlHossCanada". This will later save you from having to replace the final drive unit, which can easily run several hundred dollars (not to mention leaving you stranded with your bike-- possibly in the middle of nowhere!).

You might take both the side covers off with a coin (they're beneath the seat), and inspect the bike's frame underneath the battery box. If you see where battery acid has attacked (and corroded) the bike's frame--don't walk, run away from the bike. This problem is NOT FIXABLE on any practical level.

Ask the dealer if the bike's tool kit is included with the bike (like maybe in the storage area lockbox behind the short sissybar). This tool kit includes a special socket that makes it easy for you to change out the spark plugs (regular sockets won't fit, as the openings in the cylinder heads are tapered--the tool kit socket matches this same taper).

As JM suggested above, use a voltmeter on the battery terminals and check the voltage readings at various engine rpm's (2k, 3k, 4k). All should read above 12.8--and below 15.2. Readings outside this range suggest the bike's charging system is due for major work--& $$$$$$$$$$.

Be sure and test ride the bike, b4 buying it. Make sure it starts & idles smoothly (with and without the choke), and accelerates strong, without hiccups or hesitation. If you don't check for this, the bike may need a thorough carb cleaning that you'll have to do yourself, later. Before the test ride, inspect the tires for any dryrotting, and proper tire pressures. The factory tires should read about 30 psi cold, front and rear, before you ride off on the bike. Make sure the oil, brake and coolant fluid levels are ok b4 the test ride, as well.

Note that a little bit of exhaust backfiring when shifting gears on this bike is actually normal--but a lot IS NOT.

Work the locks on both the gas cap and the rear lockbox--make sure these locks work smoothly (and that the lockbox closes and opens without problems). With the gas cap open, look inside the fuel tank and see if you see signs of rust (like on the bottom of the filler neck). If you see rust in the tank, you might consider walking away.

On a bike with mileage that low, if either of the exhaust pipes are turning blue next to the engine, that's a sign the carb for the affected cylinder needs adjusting.

This bike originally came with 2 keys--and also ask for the owner's manual.

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/conten...e-you-buy.html

These are special bikes, because they were the last of their kind. No one else is making cruisers like this anymore--at any price! Ride safe...

'05 VN750



For other bike pix & mods, go to:
http://s1203.photobucket.com/albums/...k/VN750%20pix/
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 09:59 AM
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I can attest that on my 06, the factory did indeed lube the splines. Not with Moly, but with a different type. I would still inspect it and if you are inclined, clean out the old grease and replace with the Moly60.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 05:38 PM
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Welcome to the forum, smart move on your part. I joined and read up on these bikes loads before buying one.

The splines on my 2006 we dry from the factory.

-Sloppy

My Flickr Gallery < Link >
Westco MF battery, R/R relocated
Küryakyn LED battery monitor
Kawasaki F&S luggage rack, bag supports & headlight visor
Splines lubed at 700 miles (they were dry from the factory!)
Anodized black SuperBrace fork brace < Link >
Mutazu GA hard saddlebags < Link >
Kawasaki F&S floorboards < Link >
Chrome Küryakyn wide brake and clutch levers < Link >
Clear Alternatives LED tail light board
National Cycle N2220 Windshield
R.I.P. Lance328
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 06:14 PM
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I got an '06 with about 7K miles a couple months ago and I'm very happy I did. The dealership here (Petaluma, CA) had a '00 with 14K miles and wants $3700, I got mine for $2500. Because it has low mileage, it will probably be in pretty good shape especially if it was not left outside to rust!!! Some of the guys on this forum are extremely helpful and knowledgeable and are more than willing to give you advice like they have for me. One thing I did immediately was get an AGM battery....if it does not already have one, make that your first investment!!!!!
Welcome to forum,
Gregg

2006 Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium DPR7EIX-9
AGM Interstate CycleTron II
Saddle Bags
Natl. Cycle Deflector Screen
SilverStar Headlight 9003/H2 H4
Ext. Back Rest
Marbled
R/R relocation
Digital Volt Meter 5 IN 1
Engine Guard w/pegs
ProTac Back Rest
Trunk (not installed)
Pickup coil mod
Metzler ME 880 Marathon
front: 110/90 - 19 rear: 170/80 - 15
MCCT
Kury grips

Hopefull:
Nice Lady on the back...
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 09:23 PM
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My 06 splines were definitely not lubed and I found this site a little too late. My splines stripped about 10 miles from home one night. Took it apart this spring and all that was there was red dust. Make sure they are lubed. That rear hub is about 1100.00 new. I was lucky and found a good one on eBay

2006 VN750
21,000 Miles
Splines lubed with Moly 60
Deka ETX15L AGM Battery
TOC MCCT's
NGK Iridium plugs
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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well well...

Thank you all for the kind welcome and great advise. I was very much looking forward to enjoying the lil' Vulcan. At the dealership today I was met by the sobering pricetag of $4995. That is a cool $1600 over book value, and no financial institution will touch it. I simply had to let it go. Maybe some other dealer won't be so proud of theirs further down the road....
Have a continued good summer..

G.
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