Pluged hose need to chunk air box - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Question Pluged hose need to chunk air box

Well tried the marble thing, stuck a hungry hungry hippo ball, slightly smaller than a marble but fit loosly but it aint gone fall thru the reed valve thing but i didnt touch the vacume hose or two going to the head ONLY THE ONE GOING TO THE AIRBOX. So did i do it right. And what kinda bent hose do i need to put the air filter straight off the side of the carb. Got to get rid of the air box to fit on a fuel filter still sput sput sputerin.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 07:38 PM
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I don't recommend using filters that attach directly to the carbs. They let a lot more dirt through, and you will have to rejet. You don't need to remove the airbox to remove the complete air injection system. I don't have any idea what a hungry hungry hippo ball is, but to use marbles they have to fit tightly in the rubber hoses, to block off all air flow. I would remove the hoses from the heads, cap the fittings, then remove the three way valve, and the hose to the airbox, and plug the hole in the airbox. It's your bike though, it's up to you. I do recommend you do some reading about the possible consequences before making a major modification like that.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 07:59 PM
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Around these parts we call what you are asking about an Ear Shave. Below is a great link to how to do it. You will read that there is more too it and just putting the filters on the carbs. Do as Jerry recommends and do your research.. Make sure you know what exactly you are doing to your bike and any potential consequences that could come from it.

http://06vn750.blogspot.com/

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Been readin alot the past month befor i got brave enough to start turnin stuff. Its slowly gettin better as i tweek it here there, still got that sputer but only on some days . Gone get it yet. Im from the dirt road this aint my first time to turn a wrench but i know when im out of my league too. Plus i got a cousin who went to colledge for bikes so i got some back up. I always read read read.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Well pluged the hose going to the air box and plug the vac line controling the valve but still pop pop could have exaust leak has anyone else run staight pipe with an H pipe inbetween for balance.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2012, 04:52 AM
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You say your problem is pop pop is that on deceleration as most of the vn750s do it, mine does not have the emissions stuff on as standard and it still pops when I shut down the throttle.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2012, 01:45 PM
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sounds like your carbs aren't tuned right then
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2012, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thelastmoheigan View Post
Well pluged the hose going to the air box and plug the vac line controling the valve but still pop pop could have exaust leak has anyone else run staight pipe with an H pipe inbetween for balance.
If I understand correctly, you plugged the large hose going from the valve to the airbox, and the small vacuum line to the rear carb. That should completely disable the system. I just removed mine, capped off the fittings on the head, capped off the fitting on the rear carb, and plugged the hole in the bottom of the airbox.

I don't recommend any modifications to the stock system, The main reason most people do that is for more noise. That large chamber under there is specifically designed to balance the system. It has a complex inner structure, it is not just a simple crossover. By removing it you will lose power, and will make it more difficult to tune properly over the entire rpm range. If more noise is what you want, I suggest going with an aftermarket exhaust system designed for the bike. You will still lose power, but the system will still be balanced and easy to tune. The stock intake, engine, and exhaust are a precisely engineered system, designed to work together for best performance for normal riding. Some modification is possible, but I suggest before making any modifications that you thoroughly research what you want to accomplish, and what will be required to do it. Also, modifications from stock will not fix a poorly running bike, it needs to be running right to begin with. And remember, when making modifications, anything you gain in one area will be lost somewhere else. If you just want the bike to run right, I suggest leaving it stock, except for removing the air injection system, then give the carbs a good thorough cleaning. You can also adjust the pilot screws on both carbs. Both should be adjusted the same. Proper adjustment should be between 2 1/2-3 turns out.


There are many things that can cause a bike to not run right, from dirty carbs, to an air leak in the intake, to bad spark plugs or other ignition components. The Vulcan 750 runs great completely stock when everything is right.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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air box , air filter , fuel filter , marble

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