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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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If you have recently purchased a Vulcan 750, welcome. It is a great bike. But it does have a few issues. Two of these issues are far more critical than the rest. Not taking care of them can cause SERIOUS damage to your bike. First of all, LUBE THE SPLINES!!! This cannot be said enough. Do not ride the bike until you have lubed the splines. The Vulcan 750 specifically is very prone to final drive failure if the drive splines are not kept lubed on a regular basis, and the damage is severe and expensive. Repairing it with new parts can cost more than the bike may be worth. No matter what other things may be wrong, DO THE SPLINES FIRST. Hopefully they are not already seriously damaged from the neglect of a former owner.

The second thing is the cam chain tensioners. They are guaranteed to fail on the Vulcan 750, and when they do, it can cause SERIOUS damage to the engine. If your engine seems to be making to much mechanical noise, especially if it tends to quiet down after the bike warms up, most likely you tensioners have FAILED. Look up the "Grambo trick" on the forum and do it. If the engine suddenly gets a lot quieter, that confirms your tensioners have FAILED. Again, if you just bought the bike, all you can do is hope the damage is not severe YET. It doesn't take long. You will need to either replace the tensioners with new oem ones, which seem to last about 10,000 miles, or get new TOC manual tensioners, which last forever. I have over 40,000 miles on the manual tensioners with no problems. But you do need to do something. A loose cam chain will wreak havoc in the engine. OEM tensioners are not repairable, so they will need to be replaced. Again, do not ride the bike in this condition, don't even run the engine.


I posted this because I have recently heard about to many bikes damaged by the above problems. Some may think I am making too much of a big deal out of this, but it is absolutely CRITICAL. If this post saves even one bike, it's worth it.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 04:47 AM
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Thank you so much for posting this. I knew about the cam chain tensioners, and knew my bike was having an issue with them, but I had no idea about the splines. I'll be checking that shortly.

Thanks for potentially saving my bike, and saving me some cash!

--Madame Mohawk.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 07:04 AM
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Hi. Just bougft a 750a . Great relaxed bike. I just chenaged or the fluids. but that for the two tips. I will do this ASAP

Steve

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 10:37 AM
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What should I lube the splines with ? And the rear wheel gear, while we're on the subject?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 11:01 AM
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Most recommend Honda Moly 60 grease, but most any brand of high percentage of moly will work. The Kawa repair manual just says "high temperature grease", but with the splines I and most of us but the better moly grease.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Honda moly 60 will work just fine. I now use Guard Dog 570, which is 73% moly, but I seriously doubt there is any difference. Before I found out about these, I use plain old Sta-Lube moly wheel bearing grease, and the splines held up fine. The main advantage to high moly content paste would seem to be how long it lasts. I did mine every 10,000 miles with the wheel bearing grease, and have continued to do so with the moly paste. It's probably not necessary to do it that often with the paste, but it does make me feel better, knowing my drive system is protected. I use it on both ends of the drive shaft, and where the wheel engaged the ring gear on the final drive housing.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 10:31 PM
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Are there other ways to determine if the tensioner needs attention? The engine going quiet might not be obvious enough to send me the message. Thanks.

Dave
----------------
2005 Vulcan 750
Odometer @ October, 2019: 14,200
Purchased May, 2011 @ 2,172
Splines lubed @ 2,962 (were in good shape)
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 10:55 PM
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I agree with Jerrry on a lot of things! Have not done my spline thing yet, is on my very near future list, have read and looked at many pics and do not feel that it is a major under taking, being somewhat mechanical inclined and good with my hands. And will be something to be cked on at whatever time intervals it turns out to be, tire changes, or milage whatever. I think a good high temp wheel bearing grease would be ok, keeping in mind that it may need to be cked more often. I don't put a lot of faith in the idea that if it cost more that it is superior. Cleaning, lubing and maintanance,is always the key.

04-3,200 miles bought July 2011 with 928 miles. Loaded with acessories to many to list here, see my albums for more details! I also make a custom tank bib specific for the 750 if anyone is interested, ck my albums for some pics.
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